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Moby Grape 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Gregg Stevens, Larry C. Schubarth, April, 1978
Page Views: 8,597
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 4, 2002

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Me leading the first pitch of Moby Grape.

Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st MORE INFO >>>


This is a really fun route and makes for a great first lead. Moby Grape is located near the right end of the dome in a large right facing corner.

Pitch 1: 120" 5.7 Begin with a few moves up the slab to reach the corner. Follow the corner for about 100 feet of fun stemming and jamming with perfect protection. Just below the anchors the crack peters out and the rock bulges. Face climb over the bulge on large holds and move up to the anchor below a large roof. Either Rap with two ropes or continue up for another pitch.

Pitch 2: 100" 5.6 Face climb up and left to avoid the roof. The climbing quickly becomes easy as you move up the slab. Continue until you reach a bolted anchor in a pod below the walk-off ledge.

Walk off to the climbers left and scramble down along the edge of the dome.


Nuts and a couple of cams up to #2 Camalot.

Loose Block Warning! 

Per Preston Dennis: as of 4/17/17: there is a very loose, microwave-size rock halfway up the first pitch on the left side of the corner (most popular pitch) as of 4/17/17. Dislodge this rock, and it will tumble right on top of your belayer and possibly damage your rope as well.

Photos of Moby Grape Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch of Moby Grape (5.7) and Happy Trails (5....
BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch of Moby Grape (5.7) and Happy Trails (5....
Rock Climbing Photo: Below the crux.
Below the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the Moby Grape dihedral (1st pitch).
Climbing the Moby Grape dihedral (1st pitch).
Rock Climbing Photo: My wife on pitch 2 of Moby Grape.
My wife on pitch 2 of Moby Grape.
Rock Climbing Photo: Simon leading Moby Grape.
Simon leading Moby Grape.
Rock Climbing Photo: Having fun on Moby Grape.
Having fun on Moby Grape.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tristan leading Moby Grape.
Tristan leading Moby Grape.
Rock Climbing Photo: Laura climbing Moby Grape.
Laura climbing Moby Grape.
Rock Climbing Photo:

Comments on Moby Grape Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 17, 2017
By Bryson Slothower
Apr 3, 2002

Moby Grape is route #9 in the picture above

By Les Vanpelt
Jun 10, 2002

Great route but not for your first lead. I thought the pro was going to be better, according to the guide it's great. Good moves all up the first pitch. Pull through the crack in the roof above the first anchors, the best moves on the climb, then slip your way up easy, unprotected lichen slabs to the top ledges. The walk off is exsposed and kind of sucks.
By Bryson Slothower
Jul 19, 2002

This was my first trad lead and I didn't own any cams yet, only nuts. I thought it was great........
By Bill Parmenter
Aug 28, 2002

Agree with Les on the walk off. It is relatively low 5 grad traversing, but if you slip it's a potentialy fatal ride all the way to the deck. Would advise staying roped up and on belay until you reach the hike down on the nortwest side.
By Dave Brower
From: cs co
Oct 19, 2002

Do the roof ! it's wild pumping 5.10 "jugs" A classic finish to this great route !
By Luc Gruenther
Nov 1, 2002

The first pitch of this route is a great one if you're looking to take a beginner up a sweet toprope. It is possible to use a 60m rope, but I had to climb the first 15 feet or so of easy rock at the base of the route in order to belay for the toprope. Of course, that also means downclimbing from that point after you've rapped from the anchors. I didn't find it too tough at all.
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 4, 2004

Wasn't Moby Grape a rock band in the seventies?
By Kris Carter
Mar 30, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route, don't just do pitch 1 & 2 then walk off, head up the easy crack above pitch 2 anchors to the top! Fun little step from pitch 1 anchors to get around the roof. Wasn't up for the direct over the roof, but it looked doable. I stopped short of the pitch 2 anchors and put a long sling around a big boulder so I could see my 2nd come up. Another fun route at 11mile.
By Larry Shaw
Jun 17, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun first pitch, some loose rock half way up but a nice move to the anchors.
By Ryan Carlino
Apr 25, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good route up solid rock. Wasn't super hard, but definitely fun! There are lots of holds (on left wall or right face) and good stances to place pro. Bring 2 ropes to get down if you don't want to walk around.
By John McNamee
From: Littleton, CO
May 22, 2006

Only one 60m rope is required if you want to rap from the anchors at the top of the first pitch. It will get you down to just above the ground from where you can easily pull the ropes.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 29, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A 70m rope is useful for lowering or rapping.
By Nate Oakes
Aug 27, 2007

Lots of rests available on the first pitch. Definitely worth doing if you're in the mood for a mellow climb. The downclimbing at the base isn't difficult if you're on a 60m rope.
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Aug 27, 2007

Moby Grape is a rock group from the 60s! They are so old that I have an album of theirs that is monaural (not stereo for you ipod heads). Listen to "Hey Grandma".
By Michael J Yarros
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a nice route, but gear placements down low can be tough in the shallow crack.
By Larry C. Schubarth
From: colorado springs, colorado
Sep 17, 2007

On the first ascent, Gregg dislodged a pretty large flake almost trashing me AND his brand new Purple rope!!!
By Unassigned User
Jun 29, 2008

I found the first pitch to be a nice climb on the easy side of 5.7. The second pitch wasn't all that interesting and I wish we had just rappelled down and using the time on another route.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 25, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Agree with Dave G. Really fun 1st pitch -- easy 5.7 Simple to protect. Crux just before the anchors. Set a top rope for followers. You need a 70m rope to set up a top rope from the bottom.
By Alex A
May 6, 2010

Looks better in the photo than it climbs. The 1st 25ft is good, some loose rock, dirt, good pro.
By Simon
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 30, 2010

1st pitch is great, good pro and fun climbing that's on the easier end of 5.7. 2nd pitch is of little interest, it's 5.2 bath tubs and jugs with a couple of 5.4 moves, that meander across the top half of the crag. Unless you want to practice working with a second on a (semi) hanging belay, just do pitch one and use your time on one of the other fun routes. Towards the end of the second pitch beware the hangerless bolt studs sticking out of the rock. They are a major trip hazard and it's on terrain easy enough to choose to be unroped.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Much, much easier than Happy Trails, the alleged 5.6 to the right.
By Paul Kaltenthaler
From: Colorado Springs
Jan 16, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great beginner trad route for the grade; take and handful of nuts off your rack, throw them at the crack and magnet!
By Paul Vervalin
Aug 6, 2015

Did this route for the first time today. Fun, fun route. Nice rests, good pro, a couple of very minor thought provoking moments. The bulge/crux at the top is awesome. It protects pretty well with a #3 Camalot (blue), but it needs to be extended more than the other placements. Not sure why the beta say up to #2. I'm glad I had the #3 with me. Climb safe....
By Ben D.
From: Colorado
Aug 29, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A really enjoyable climb with a great finishing move! If you are doing this as a single pitch, a 70m rope just barely gets you back to the base. You can also TR Original Sin to the right from the same anchors, just clip the last few bolts of OS for directionals on your way back down.
By Preston Dennis
Apr 17, 2017

  • **DANGER*** There is a crazy loose, microwave-size rock halfway up the first pitch on the left side of the corner (most popular pitch) as of 4/17/17. Dislodge this rock, and it will tumble right on top of your belayer and possibly damage your rope as well.

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