REI Community
Bitty Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A's Jax T 
Bitty Buttress T 
Buzz, The S 
Creeping Obscurity T 
Electricity T,S 
Holy Ascension T,TR 
Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye T 
Jaguary T 
Jam Left T 
Jitters, The S 
Lorax, The S 
Milk the Quartz for Pints T 
Moby Dike S 
Peach Monkey S 
Peapod T 
Return To Sender S 
Reveille T,S 
Right Crack or Last Crack (aka Mirage?) T 
Rise and Shine S 
South T 
Spins, The T,S 
Treetop Landing T 
Voices Carry T 
Welcome Home S 

Moby Dike 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Moe Hershoff, 2004
Page Views: 151
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Aug 17, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Moby Dike climbs the left side of the large right ...

  • 2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Moby Dike is a pretty good climb in a good location at a prominent quartz dike at the very top of the Blob/Bitty Buttress ridge. It's a bit short given the approach, and the quartz holds are still flaking off. The FA party rated this 5.9, but it felt hard to me. The moves and clips at the 3rd and 4th bolts seemed quite hard, balancy and precarious.

    Approach: From the Blob parking pullout, look for the first formation on the skyline right of East Blob. You'll see a steep orange wall with a prominent vertical white dike. Moby Dike climbs the left side of the dike which, not obvious from the road, is a left facing corner. Leaping Lizards, listed in Rossiter, is to the right of the dike. Hike up the trail to Blob and find your way east below Blob Slab to the base of the gully below East Blob. Scramble up a trough on the right of the main gully to a large bench with trees. Follow this right/east to its end, and you'll be below the climb. You could climb up trad from here to the bolt anchors at the start of the climb, but better, reverse your path for about 100', then go up a bit and climb right up a third class ramp past 2 small trees to a ledge. Follow this to its end, then do a short exposed but very easy traverse to the bolt anchors.

    The route: Traverse right and make several hard moves up the quartz band. Hand traverse left around the roof (reachy) and then up easy rock to a ceiling. One more hard move over the ceiling leads to the anchors.

    Descent: You can reverse the third class approach from the start anchors or rappel with a 60m rope from the top anchors to the next lower level and hike west to rejoin the approach.


    7 bolts plus 2-bolt anchors at the top and at the start.

    Photos of Moby Dike Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Nguyen sews up Moby Dike. Photo by Chris Perk...
    Andy Nguyen sews up Moby Dike. Photo by Chris Perk...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Moby Dike and Leaping Lizards.
    BETA PHOTO: Moby Dike and Leaping Lizards.

    Comments on Moby Dike Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About