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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 3,998
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (107)
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This route is suited for somebody over 5' tall...

Closes at dusk, and most parking areas are self-paid MORE INFO >>>


Fifth route from the left on the scale wall. Climb up the slab using huge jugs with good feet. This climb is stretchy enough where it will be a good warm up, and a good exercise for someone who hasn't climbed outdoors before.

The route is a bit runout for a 5.8, but the crux is protected and near the top.


4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

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Rock Climbing Photo: super fun route, ive climbed all the routes on the...
super fun route, ive climbed all the routes on the...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 8, 2016
By Toshi Takeuchi
Apr 7, 2003

Fun route with giant holds. I would call this a gym 5.8.
By tdrace
Feb 8, 2013

I like to call this route the "Booger Route" for the boogery type holds on the wall.
By Boriss
From: Sacramento
Apr 7, 2013

About half way on the crack/arête on this route is a loose flake. Be careful on the holds.
By Manny Segovia
From: Sacramento, California
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

super fun, very much like a gym climb with really cool holds. I would only give it a 5.7 outdoors tho. I really like the sick slimy looking holds on it. also a super clean lead. could be a first outdoor lead for and 5.8 gym climber
By Katie River
From: Oakland, CA
May 30, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The first and third bolts have been cut. I brought up some nuts to protect but placement was not bomber. Was confident in not falling so I continued on.
By kennethsime
From: Berkeley, California
May 30, 2016

I was there two weeks ago or so and some of the hangers were definitely moving, I don't know about sketchy though. I'm pretty sure someone removed the hangers, possibly because they were sketch (I don't know how to judge that stuff).
By Rough
Jun 1, 2016

M&M is 17 years old and I would guess to be the most climbed route in Auburn. I've replaced the hangers on that route 3 times. I replaced almost every hanger on the Scale Wall and the Memorial out of pocket except for a few donated ACA hangers. Sorry guys, this crap needs to start being picked up by the climbing community.

If a hanger spins, it's because it needs tightened. It's not sketchy, it's not "dangerous" unless the hanger is near the end of the stud or away from contact with the wall. Hand tighten it down, let someone with a wrench go up and tighten snug.

You shouldn't yank the hanger. The same thing has happened several times at Auburn because people new to climbing don't have a basic understanding of the mechanics of bolts and climbing in general out of the gym. LEAVE IT FOR SOMEONE WHO DOES!

Given it is the 1st and 3rd bolts, my bet is on ignorance, not theft.
By Heather Dolan
From: Foster City
Sep 20, 2016

Hi guys, I'll happily pay to replace the bolts and or hangers for these routes. The anchor bolts have been removed on the furthest right most climb too. In my opinion that shouldn't be even climbed until there is an actual anchor. Maybe just me, but I like to put my life on at least two bolts. I just need to know what to buy (and how many) and have someone who knows what they are doing put them back in.
I greatly appreciate all those individuals who take their own personal time and effort to make outdoor climbing possible. I can meet anytime in the morning.
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Sep 20, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I believe CRAGS is doing some route maintenance out there soon. My buddy and I are letting them borrow our drill.
By Eric L
From: Roseville, CA
Nov 7, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

As of Nov 5th 2016, 3 hangers missing - #1, 2, 4. Number 3 and the anchors still in place. Bolts look to still be in place. Unfortunately, I didn't bring any nuts (no humor intended) with which to secure hangers (which I had). Didn't inspect the bolts to confirm if they are OK. Anyone know the bolt size (3/8 or 10mm)?
By Ron C
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 8, 2016

Placed new hangers on M&M. Back in business.

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