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Between "Slip and Slide
" and "Snakes For Snacks
" is a shallow, left-slanting groove running up the wall. Starting at a small etched grafitti "MK '74", this route wanders up the face left of the groove. Following the line of least resistance keeps the grade at 5.9, but protection is minimal, requires a lot of fiddling, and might not hold a fall. If you're not a solid 5.9 leader with good route-finding skills, good trad protection skills, and a head for runouts, STAY AWAY or toprope it. If you really feel up for the lead, give serious consideration to soloing it when nobodys around to watch you die. DON'T DO IT if you think anyone will be impressed - they'll just think you're stupid.
Sketchy and marginal at best: small wires to mid-sized cams, possibly an old 1/4" death bolt and two fixed copperheads to a two bolt anchor with chains atop "Slip and Slide
". Safer to toprope.
By Ted Peterson
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2011
Led it this morning and that description is about accurate. I opposed some small wires and did a little nesting but felt alright about the pro. Offset nuts really helped. Think I plugged a TCU. Wandered into the crack a couple feet right of the smooth, natural ending. How much faith do you have in your pro?
Side note: Continued two more pitches to the top. Very delicate, particular climbing. Don't do it.