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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 10/05
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 133
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Oct 2, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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  • Description 

    Mjolnir is the name of the mythical hammer of Thor, who is the Norse God of Thunder. Over the millenia Mjolnir has come to represent more a state of mind than an actual hammer [wielded] by the Thunder God of the Vikings (who are my ancestors). The route begins from the curb a short way left from the direct start to Excalibur. Climb steep rock to an overhanging V-shaped dihedral (crux). Lieback out of the dihedral, then climb straight up past the last two bolts to the ring anchor. The final terrain is not really a letdown. Lower off.

    Caution: Avoid any temptation you may have to stem from a huge perched block on a ledge above and right of the sixth bolt. If this monster teeters off and flattens an RTD bus (communist bastards), it is better that the bureaucrats can't blame it on climbers.


    7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Gear up to 1 inch could be used to fill in between the last two bolts, but was not used on the FA.

    Photos of Mjolnir Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jerry Bargo belays at the base of Mjolnir, avoidin...
    Jerry Bargo belays at the base of Mjolnir, avoidin...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mjolnir.  Start below the V-slot on the left side ...
    BETA PHOTO: Mjolnir. Start below the V-slot on the left side ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nickie working up the V-slot.
    Nickie working up the V-slot.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bruno exiting the slot.
    Bruno exiting the slot.

    Comments on Mjolnir Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 16, 2005
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    An excellent and sustained route; one of the best sport pitches at this grade that I've done in Boulder Canyon.

    There's a tricky move just getting started at the first bolt.

    I removed some loose rock on the ledge between the second and third bolts. There still is a small loose block in the corner on this ledge, but it would require a prybar to remove.

    Above, sustained interesting stemming and chimneying led to the top of the V-slot, where there is a committing layback exit left at the fifth bolt. This bolt is around the corner out of sight until you start into the layback; look for it and make the clip before pulling the move.

    The final steep headwall also has some hard moves. I got gray and yellow Aliens in horizontal cracks between the sixth and seventh bolts. The moves straight up past the last bolt looked very hard, so I went left to a hand crack and battled past a little bush before angling back right to the anchor.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 21, 2007
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    A good route in a bad place. Too bad it's not further from the road. Still, it was a diversion while we waited to see if the rain would stay or go, before heading up to Avalon.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Apr 24, 2014
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    This is a fun route and both me and my partner thought it was easier than the 10a to the left. I guess people's strengths vary.

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