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San Pedro Wall
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15 Pesos T 
Dr. D & Mr. P go PC T 
Flight of the Peregrine T 
Horny Lizards T 
Mixed Decisions T 
Time Capsule T,TR 

Mixed Decisions 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Charlie King, Andy Tretiakoff, Nick Spriggshall
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 29
Submitted By: A.P.T. on Aug 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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view from top of the pillar

Description 

The crux is near the top with rather trickey gear placements. The step off the pillar onto the face is easy and I've been told it can be protected with a (Green Alien).This route was originally led by "Charlie King" with only "2 bolts." A 3rd bolt has been added later on the crux. Partners are telling me another should be added due to the danger of a fall stepping out onto the face which would slam a leader onto the pillar below should one fall here although it's an easy move. Also been told it should be rated R if another is not added? The 3rd bolt being added was already controversial.

Location 

First route encountered and can be indenitfied by looking for 2 bolts on a leaning pillar.

Protection 

Nuts, micro camalots and long slings. 3 lead bolts/Chain Anchors.


Photos of Mixed Decisions Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: protecting the move onto the face from the pillar
protecting the move onto the face from the pillar
Rock Climbing Photo: Rev. Robert Mcleod, on the leaning pillar start of...
Rev. Robert Mcleod, on the leaning pillar start of...

Comments on Mixed Decisions Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Thompson
From: Logan, UT
Aug 28, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

My first lead of this route, I didn't spot the small feature at the top of the pillar that would have provided some protection. When standing on the top of the pillar, the feature is at waist height and to the left. I tried both my green alien and pink tri-cam and both fit pretty well.

The moves through that section are not difficult, but it is slightly awkward and the potential for injury high. A fall from that spot without any protection would be a horrow show. 30 feet at least and plenty of stuff to hit on the way down.

Even if you protected at that feature, and you slipped off, you would fall 6-8 feet onto the pillar.

BTW, don't miss the second pitch from the anchors. Horny Lizards is a lot fun.
By Jimbo
Sep 20, 2006

I'd add a bolt at the bottom. The rock and the flake are of low quality, and could rip if you blew the moves and the landing sucks.
If your purpose is to show the world how burly you are, you should chop the other 3 bolts higher up. That would make a statement, but very few climbers would ever climb it.
Your drilling bolts anyway... why not make it safe and fun for the fledgling 5.9 climber. The kind of climber that is going to hump down the hill to this area in the first place.

Just some thoughts.
By Jimbo
Sep 20, 2006

One other comment. Why not move the first belay up and right few feet so you don't have to hang and it's a cleaner drop for the rope when you lower??
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Sep 24, 2006

Jimbo,
When we put up "Mixed Decisions," our intention was to keep it mostly trad. I added a bolt later on the crux which was controversial and have offered to remove it, but (Charlie) said don't worry about it.. I would be more than happy to make the modifications you mentioned after reading what you posted, because "it only makes sense." I will speak to my partners first and see if they would be ok with it. I value your suggestions about putting up routes as it only made some of them better in the past!

Thanks,
Andy
By Jimbo
Sep 26, 2006

Andy,
Do what you think would make the route better. I'm just making suggestions.
Keep it up the more the marrier.
You looking at the crags farther down the hill? I was thinking about putting some stuff up down there, but if you've already got your eyeballs on some lines I'll find another crag. Which, by the way, I did today......

By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Aug 9, 2012

We found 3 draws on this route last week. Let me know if they're yours.

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