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Mitten's Revenge 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike McGlynn 5/06
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,380
Submitted By: Mike McGlynn on Jul 25, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Photo of "22 Minutes 'til closing", &quo...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This route requires a bit of a lot of different technique. The bottom section is a fairly easy crack, but requires a bit of thinking for gear placement. The middle bulge (first crux) looks a bit intimidating, but the crimps are all there. After a little offwidth section, the top section (second crux) is pure face; very fun and protected by two bolts. This last section is almost like a reverse "Lotta Balls", instead of balls, there are small dimples that you don't think will quite hold you, but do.


This route starts in the obvious crack about 30' right of the start to "Tarzan's Arm", follows the crack up, over a bulge, through a short offwidth section, past two bolts, to the bolted anchors. As with all other climbs on this face, you walk off right, and circle back to the base. You could rap off with a 65 meter rope, with a 60 meter rope you end up having to downclimb the last 6-8'.


Nuts, cams up to #4 Friend. There are two bolts in the last 20' or so. Bolted anchors.

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By EricD
Nov 15, 2008

The new guidebook (Handren) has this route labled as 22 Minutes Till Closing.
By john harrison
Mar 17, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We went up the right side of the "bulge" on a lark. Felt like a nice 5.10. Then again.... I WAS wearing my approach shoes so YMMV. Nice foot holds but light on the fingers and with the ledge right below...... . Was sketchy pro on the right but fun moves. Left side felt much more solid. Holds seem delicate but more robust than they appeared. Rack: nuts and cams to 3".

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