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Mitosis 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Smith
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,026
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 11, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Extend the third draw!

Description 

For years route developers (my self included) looked at this face and failed to see this line that Chris Smith's well trained eye managed to pick out. When he told me about the line he could read the skepticism on my face and said "I know ::shrug:: go see for your self, it's good". He's Right! A pretty short but very engaging line climbs the already shared start of Metamorphosis and Clusterphobia (Though an added bolt will make it less of a cluster) and breaks right in to the steep wall.

Follow the rail to the right after the relatively easy start. This rail gets less possessive as you move farther right. When the rail ends, a powerful move gets you to a jug and a clip. The crux involves an obvious underling crimp and the crimps above which will get you to a jug and the chain anchors.

My take away from the climb was that I loved the subtle footwork and weight shifts that were necessary for me to make the crux holds work.

Location 

look to the left of the birch tree on the elevated ledge, This is the line of stainless glue-ins on the steep face.

Protection 

5(?) shiny glue-ins to the chain anchor.


Photos of Mitosis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek Flynn traversing the rail
Derek Flynn traversing the rail
Rock Climbing Photo: Jess milking the rest.
Jess milking the rest.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gisely getting into the crux
Gisely getting into the crux

Comments on Mitosis Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 10, 2017
By Joe M.
Administrator
Mar 11, 2016

I miss climbing with Chris back here in RI, so unassuming but always psyched and encouraging. Glad to hear he is still putting up new routes that no one else had the eye for!
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Mar 11, 2016

Not only did nobody else have the eye for this line, but the other attempt at a route up this face (15 feet to the right through nasty, broken rock) never gets climbed.

I'm glad to see a stout line through nice rock get established right in plain sight. And after watching a couple sends last weekend, the moves look awesome. Too hard for me right now, though.

This one is sure to be popular.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 11, 2016

Please chime in on the grade when you do it so we can get to a consensus :)
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 11, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun little route! It was hiding in plain sight all these years until Chris had the vision.

I called it 12a, mostly because this cliff needs a 5.12. Also it felt similar in difficulty to Peanut Man.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 11, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I'm not sure Chris had the original vision first ;) , but I'll give him the much due credit of actually doing the work to get it done :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 11, 2016

share and share alike i guess haha... we all know that guy Mark has more vision than he can keep up with ;)
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 11, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

So true. I need an army of helpers. I hope to get up there this weekend and check out Chris's latest creation.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Mar 14, 2016

Glad to see this put up, nice work Chris!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 21, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Fun route, quite bouldery. It helps a lot to pre-inspect on your way down from climbing Metamorphosis so you are not hanging out mid crux wondering which holds to go for. You will want to execute quickly! This may actually be easier for shorter people as long as you have some power.
By irujo
May 2, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Very fun. Make sure to extend the third draw!!! About 8 inches below the third is a very sharp hold, my friend fell there and it cut through the sheathing on my relatively new rope.
By Derek Jf
From: Northeast
May 8, 2016

I broke the undercling and your rope in one burn.... This route has it out for me. I still feel bad about that core shot Adam
By Zach Swanson
From: Newton, MA
Jun 20, 2016

You broke the undercling crimp? How bad is it now?
By Aaron Hwang
Jun 22, 2016
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I was on this route this past weekend and the weekend before. Don't know how the undercling was before but if it's THE undercling on the route that broke, it's still there and it's not bad. the route still goes and is still one of the best routes on the wall.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jul 16, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The undercling broke? How big was it before? Now, it's a two-finger job (just the pads) with a thumb pinch.
By KCraig
From: Lebanon, NH
Jul 25, 2016

I climbed this again last week after making an ascent in early march soon after the FA. I couldn't tell a difference. If the undercling broke, it certainly didn't feel noticeably smaller, and the grade is unaffected.

Fun little route and a great addition to this cliff!
By Graham O.
Aug 5, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This would be my hardest flash if it gets a .12a consensus. Fun, but felt easier than Apocalypse.
By Andrew Maver
From: NH
May 10, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Got this today; the undercling is still pretty good (if it was even broken?). My two cents on the grade is 5.11c . Standing at 5'6" is usually a hinderance but I think it may actually work to my advantage when locking into the undercling. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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