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YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Damboise and Jerry Handren 1991
Page Views: 2,108
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Cruxing. Photo by Mike Manganiello


Mithras is the nice-looking line of bolts just right of Eyeless in Gaza. While Eyeless offers pumpy, sustained climbing, Mithras is much more powerful and bouldery.

After a sketchy bit of 5.8ish climbing to the first bolt, the crux comes at bolts two and three, and yields to a smart sequence. Climbers who attempt to thug the move may end up disappointed. Eventually, before bolt four, you climb more or less up the arete, maybe sneaking right for a rest or leaning left for a clip. A final, aesthetic boulder problem on the left face guards the chains.

Mithras is among the best sport routes at Sundown, and a worthy tick for those who have already done Eyeless or for those who are sick of falling right before Eyeless's anchors.


Immediately to the right of Eyeless.


8 bolts.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Mithras (12d)
Mithras (12d)

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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Mar 27, 2011

I tried this route a few years back. Is the no-hands rest to the right of the arete considered on-route?
By Lanky
From: Tired
Mar 28, 2011

I used it when I tried this rig. It's right there, so avoiding it felt contrived.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jan 1, 2014

I'm going to climb you.
By Rich Brereton
From: Pownal, ME
Feb 17, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I know Handren calls it 12c and so do Joe T and Bayard, so I'm going to feel like a pansy for saying this, but it's all of 12d. It's no easier than Aquarius, which is a good comparison because both routes break down into two boulder problems separated by a near no-hands.

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