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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Before June 2007
Page Views: 160
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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  • Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Route Description 

    Start:The right/west edge of a big wide slab.

    Pitch 1: Climb up the weaknesses to the first bolt. Don't make it harder than 5.4. Clip bolt 1 and make a 5.7 friction move. Clip a long runner into the chains above and continue up to the roof. Move through the notch that takes a good cam. A large cam protects the precarious move up to a bolt. Diagonal left toward the crack in the dihedral and protect before pulling up over left and onto another slab. A few more friction moves. Belay at a 2-bolt/ring station.
    Pitch 2: Diagonal left 30' over an easy bulge of rock to bolt 1. Climb straight up a slab with small intermittent cracks. Place cams when you can and look for bolts in a straight line to the ledge. Most folks will probably want to end here. There is a 2-bolt/ring station 20' back right or you can continue straight up to a natural belay at the base of the wall.
    Pitch 3: Scramble 100' west along the ledge system. Belay at a 2-blade/chain station.


    I recommend bringing 8 cams (0.9"-2"), 32 carabiners & 12 runners (24"). The route is a bit runout in sections, but the hardest sections have protection close by.


    Bolted & cleaned June 2006-May 2007 with the help of Nathan Fisher, Dana Patterson (pitch 1) & Glen Kaplan (pitch 2).

    Comments on Misunderstood Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tea
    Dec 26, 2007

    The single bolt on the first pitch, seemed strangly placed.
    By Tea
    Dec 27, 2007

    Thanks Craig...I must have missed something then. I was racing the probably I was rushing.
    By Ben Folsom
    Aug 11, 2008

    I'll make sure to bring exactly 32 free carabiners for this route.

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