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YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 104'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Thor Kieser
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,475
Submitted By: T. Kieser on May 25, 2006

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This is another classic "Bushism". Don't misunderestimate this route! Fire a roof in the first 30 feet, kick back on easy ground until you reach a steep corner. Stem straight up and step out to the left at a blot. Steep ground leads to a thin tricky face. Climb into a left-facing corner then out over right to the anchor.


This route is to the right of The Decider and left of Tsunami of Charisma. There is a dog tag on the first bolt with the route name and rating.


11 (now 14) QDs to the anchor so take 13 (now 16) total.

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By T. Kieser
May 26, 2006

I forgot to mention that someone vandalized my fixed static rope while it was hanging on this route. This person sliced about thirty feet off the bottom of the rope near the ground. If it was you please let me know what the f*ck your agenda is?

By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 2, 2006
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is an interesting route that is still cleaning up a bit. A long sling on the 9th (?) bolt above the roof might be better clipped with a long sling (24"?) to keep it from pinning the rope at the lip and focusing the shockload should you fall there. Save some gas for the upper bits. Thanks for all the hard work here, Thor!
Jul 4, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun climbing with a few crux sections. There are a few hollow sounding jugs, so crank lightly.
By kevin fox
From: parker
May 24, 2007

Another great route that Thor has put up. Drove up yesterday from Highlands Ranch and was rained off but not until I had a chance to climb this route. Keep putting them up, Thor!!! and if you need a rope for jugging let me know. Have a few in the basement that are taking up space.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 30, 2007

I think this and Persistent Vegetative State are some of the best routes on the Little Eiger. Nice job, Thor.
By desertrunner
From: Denver
Jul 1, 2008

This climb stumps me? Thanks for the thoughtful line.
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Jul 12, 2009

I'm confused about this route, I took 12 draws and ran out before the anchor so I traversed over to the anchors on "The Decider". Did I miss the anchors or have bolts been added?
By slim
Jun 10, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The climbing on this is quite good; varied, interesting, multiple cruxy parts. Some of the bolt locations are awkward, though, sometimes causing the biners to be loaded over edges, despite what size of draw you use. Near the top, there is a small roof, and at this location the bolt causes the rope to run directly over a sharp edge with a sharp point. I tried various combos of quickdraw lengths above and below the roof, but wasn't really able to mitigate the problem. I would definitely recommend NOT falling here, as the tensioned rope could possible get cut. Would be better if the bolt above the roof was relocated to the right a foot or two.

Also, as noted above - the bolt count is off, bring more draws.
By Bal Rau
From: Denver, Colorado
Apr 23, 2012

So what's the proper bolt count?
By Jason Platt
Jul 27, 2015

It's 14 bolts plus something for the anchors. Pretty sustained but not too bad. Two fun roofs with some tricky slab at the end. Grade seems very fair.

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