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Mists of Avalon 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Jessica True, 2001
Page Views: 6,960
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 21, 2003

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Yvonne D'Andrea cranking the roof at the third bol...

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  • Description 

    Mists of Avalon is on the First Tier of Avalon. Cross the creek, hike the big talus to the lowest point of rock and walk left about 20' along the base on a dirt path to the first large tree. Above is a roof. The arete above the right side of the roof is bolted and is Catch and Release. Mists of Avalon climbs easy blocky rock right of a right facing-corner to the roof.

    Climb easy rock past two bolts to a dirty ledge below an A-shaped notch in the roof. [Eds. there are some fractured holds here, beware.] Clip a bolt at the lip then stem through the roof with good hands. Make a really long clip and then swing right onto the face and semi-mantle a small ledge, or swing right first before clipping. The roof and getting established on the face is the crux. Pleasant and progressively easier climbing, with good clipping stances, leads to the anchors.


    8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Bring two long slings if you are going to thread the anchor, since the bolts are too high to clip with draws.

    Photos of Mists of Avalon Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Dillon cranking the crux roof.
    Peter Dillon cranking the crux roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Textbook example of shitty bolt placement. Skip th...
    BETA PHOTO: Textbook example of shitty bolt placement. Skip th...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Working the roof.
    Working the roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Shatek stepping right onto the face above th...
    Jason Shatek stepping right onto the face above th...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mists of Avalon.  The crux is at the third and fou...
    BETA PHOTO: Mists of Avalon. The crux is at the third and fou...

    Comments on Mists of Avalon Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 29, 2016
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 20, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Grungy down low, but excellent climbing from the roof to the top. The crux is getting established on the steep slab above the roof, and it can be done in two different ways, as Ivan mentions. I climbed straight up to the fourth bolt, and my partner stemmed up left and then stepped right at the fourth bolt. From here, climb the steep slab on thin 5.9 edges to the top.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 30, 2005
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Great route with some history from my point of view- something that speaks of vision and forward thinking. When I first stumbled across this route, not long after the FA, I had no clue what it was. I pretty much bagged on it on in my description submitted for the Lower Tier of Avalon. Remember, at the time there was little known or published about the area or the route. I complained that it was a worthless and dirty piece of junk. Moss and lichen all over, crumbling holds on the face, sharp, etc...

    The ugly duckling did not become a beautiful swan or anything here, but it is at least a stately goose. The route has cleaned up nicely and is now a testament to the forward thinking and vision of Richard for equipping it. Crow tastes like chicken once I get past the feathers, I guess. Nice addition to the wall. Long and pleasant- one of the better routes here.
    By Ryan Bibler
    From: MT
    Jun 5, 2006
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I think this is one of the better routes at this crag. The start is a little junky, so it looks like it doesn't get climbed much, but pulling the roof and gaining the steep slab above was interesting and fun.
    By Ian Welch
    From: Denver, CO
    Sep 20, 2006

    This was my first roof, pretty fun and great for a beginner due to the staging area you have just below the overhang.
    By Kat A
    From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
    Oct 14, 2006

    This is a nice climb. Tricky for someone short without the ape-factor (I'm 5'4") to clip that 3rd bolt from the ledge before committing to the roof - I baaaarely reached it on tip-toes (a fall here would be ugly). For anyone taller, this isn't an issue. The roof to slab transition is awesome, as well as the slab finish.
    By Ryan Malaty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    May 2, 2007
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Fun fun.

    I wish it was on the north side!! So cold!!

    But it was fun, the crux is the roof and to the fourth bolt.

    Then after that, it's cake.
    By Matt Gates
    From: Pinewood Springs, CO
    Jun 15, 2007
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Going straight up at the roof is burly but very rewarding. Move up quickly after clipping the fourth bolt and you will find a very nice rest.
    By djoseph
    May 31, 2008

    Great climb! One of the best 10s at Avalon. Moves over the roof felt a bit tougher than 10a... but perhaps they're 10a if you have good roof technique. Fun thin slab climbing above. Really a great line.
    By Shawn Murphy
    May 16, 2010

    My first roof ever...great climb.
    Hanger on 8th bolt spins...last bolt on the face.
    By prod. Kenny
    From: Boulder, Co
    Mar 31, 2012

    Fun route. Thin moves over the roof felt like the crux to me.

    By Hiro Kurotsuchi
    From: Colorado
    Jun 20, 2012

    The roof is tough, the crux in terms of strength moves. The thin stuff on the slab above scared me more than the crux though! Guess I need to practice 5.10 slabs, since with that combined with the crux, I would have given it harder than 10a.
    By Andrew Locke
    From: Louisville, CO
    May 15, 2015
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Really enjoyable route. Maybe I'm getting stronger, but stemming through the roof made it seem not too hard. The move right before the 4th bolt felt like the crux to me: committing and balancy. Superb slab climbing above. 2 or 3 stars.
    By Matthew Windchime
    From: denver
    Jun 23, 2016

    I liked it, looks like most people move to the left after the roof. I thought the thin holds and feet on the slab after might be harder than 10a. Fun route, decent shady area for extra hot days.
    By Travis Provin
    From: Boulder CO
    Sep 29, 2016

    I felt like this route was poorly bolted above the roof, a fall will place you into the roof or onto the big ledge below, so don't fall at or just above bolt 4, IMO.

    The first bolt was loose, I hand tightened it. The 4th bolt is loose and is spinning.

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