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Small Triangle 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Jun 5, 2014

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Bolts Are Failing! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A more challenging extension of Wedding Route that takes you to the top of the cliff. There is a big triangular roof to the right of the anchors, hence the name (小三 means "mistress" in colloquial Mandarin). Step out onto the face below the roof and into the short layback crack. This is a very exposed, exciting move for the grade, and protection can be a little tenuous, but it's definitely there. Pull through this to the horizontal below the roof. Traverse right and mantel onto the ledge. Continue up an easy, possibly loose dihedral to the cliff top. The anchor is a rope run through tubular webbing that is slung around two boulders on top of each other with two titanium rap rings. It will be solid for many years to come.

Location 

Above Wedding Route

Protection 

Gear to 1.5"
Sling anchor (2014)


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