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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Anchovy Caper, The S 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 
Arugula, Arugula S 
Barbershop Duet T 
Big Easy, The S 
Boats from Cuba T 
Bonnie and Clyde S 
Bourbon Street S 
Brendan's Bitches T 
Cereal Killer S 
Climb and Punishment S 
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Fish Corner  S 
Flying Squirrel S 
Green Mile S 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 
Juicy Fingers T 
Maltese Falcon, The S 
Maria's Variation T 
Men In White Suits S 
Mentally Disturbed S 
Mesresha S 
Metamorphosis S 
Mitosis S 
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 
Rainbow S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Sesame Street S 
Slack T 
Slick T 
Toxic Gumbo S 
White Buttress, The T 

Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 2,282
Submitted By: Jake D. on Apr 26, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: getting into the crux moves


Climb Anchovy Caper and continue up to a 2 bolt anchor on the grassy belay ledge above. Bring up your 2nd and belay from here. Start just right of the belay anchors up to a right facing corner. Traverse left under the roof and over. Finish up the slab to the anchors.

Mark Sprague wrote: "Yes, Panama Hat* goes at around 5.9 and is the left climb off the ledge. Beta: once you reach the roof, traverse pretty far left before going up then angling back right and up to the anchors. The best approach to PH is up The Anchovy Caper and on to the ledge where you will find a 2 bolt anchor. With a 70 m rope and good use of slings you can do this and lower as 1 long pitch."

  • Panama Hat renamed Mister Meaner (then back to Panama Hat)


Left most route on ledge above Anchovy caper.


7 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos of Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Washed out but the line roughly travels up and sli...
BETA PHOTO: Washed out but the line roughly travels up and sli...

Comments on Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 17, 2014
By jcullem
May 29, 2010

Did this route for the first time recently. A really nice moderate addition to the collection of moderate routes at this crag. It makes a nice 2-pitch route (via one of the lower pitch options) and deserves to see more traffic. Rock quality is good, but watch for some loose stuff here and there. Exposed bulgy crux half-way up, then a more exposed traverse left under the roof. Have fun!
By S. Neoh
May 29, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Agreed. Nice moves gets one to high up on the cliff.
More or less straight over the roof makes a 5.10/10+ variation; happened upon it by accident before we figured out the path of least resistance is to traverse left under the roof. :)

By CLamb
Jul 4, 2010

A really nice route, but pretty clearly in the 10a range not 5.9.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 30, 2012

I agree Sneoh, I was just thinking about this route for some reason and I also powered out the right side/center of the roof and clipped after (no long sling) and thought it a little tough and heady.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This climb made me wish for smaller fingers around the crux.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Mar 14, 2013

This is one of my favorites in the area and definitely worth the trip up to the ledge. Green Mile, Anchovy Caper, Fish Corner, and Bonnie and Clyde (this one I am not certain about..) will all get you up there so take your pick.
By Brunt Tornton
From: NH
Nov 22, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

^don't think B&C goes quite that far up
By teresamatrix
From: Los Angeles, CA
Aug 7, 2014

Can one link Anchovy Caper and Mister Meaner and get back down with a 70 m rope?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 7, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Yes, just watch the rope end. See the note in the route description.
By Brunt Tornton
From: NH
Oct 10, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

what's the story behind the name change? Panama Hat is a sweet name
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 10, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I embarrassingly tend to forget people's names or sometimes ones I give to routes. I think Ward needed a name quickly for his guide, I had a brain fart and that was all I could come up with on the spot. It was a time when we were climbing out at Owls where we were deliberately making confusing names by making them very similar to others. There is another Rumney route named Misdemeanor. I like Panama Hat better too. Just to confuse everybody, I'll change it back, haha.
By Brunt Tornton
From: NH
Oct 12, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

haha nice!
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 12, 2014

While you are changing names how about remembering the "good name" for this little gem
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 15, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

That was always the original name, Lee. I was making fun of myself and it has a double meaning.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 17, 2014

well aren't you clever :P haha
as you know i just like that route a little too much and i long for it to have an epic name...

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