REI Community
(6) First Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Days, 30 Meters S 
Agar Jelly S 
Breezy T 
Calypso T 
Cape to the Sky S 
Clean Face S 
Commissary Crack T 
Crow, The T 
Deceiving Arete S 
Desert, The S 
Dragon Arete S 
Grass T 
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 
Heaven's Falling T,S 
Hornet's Nest T 
Missionary T 
Muddy Undercling T 
Noodle Line T 
Sorry Valentine S 
Teratism T 
Walkway S 
Westbound Road T 
Wonderland Fairy S 

Missionary 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Nate Ball, Ya-Te Chen (4/16)
Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Mar 3, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
All in

Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the cave of Wilson Overhang, start either to the left on the bolts of Sorry Valentine or to the right on a left-leaning diagonal. If you choose the right option, or the cave overhang, continue up into and through the chimney above. No matter how you do it, you will end up at a ledge with (titanium bolts?) one good and one old bolt.

The second pitch moves straight up into the tight flare with a hand-crack. Beware of loose rock as you get into it. Pull through the brief crux (5.10) and continue up the crack with incredible features. End at another obvious ledge with titanium bolts to the right.

The third pitch moves up through some jumbly rock and into the roof. Traverse left along perfectly spaced horizontals and pull around the edge of the roof to a stance on a small grassy perch. Protection gets thin and the exposure mounts as you move up a slight groove to the anchor of an old sport climb. Pull over the lip onto the wide grassy ledge and build a gear belay. If not continuing upwards, you can traverse along the grassy ledge to the right, step over to the rocky pinnacle above Commissary crack, and make a 34m rappel down the south side of the Grand Auditorium. A 60m should get you down with a little down climbing.

The optional fourth pitch has been climbed, and is somewhat out of character with the rest of the climb at 5.10 R. From the grassy ledge, crawl through a half-tunnel to a tiny perch with titanium bolts. Re-belay, bring over your second, then bust up the crack above and expect some looseness. At the next grassy ledge make tenuous moves without gear and then continue through the bushes and belay off the gazebo.

Location 

Above the little cave at the base of Lower Dragon Ridge

Protection 

Gear to 3" (a few extra 1-3" pieces are nice for the 2nd pitch)


Photos of Missionary Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch, the tightness
2nd pitch, the tightness
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch, first lead
2nd pitch, first lead
Rock Climbing Photo: Ya Te on her fourth lap of this classic-to-be
Ya Te on her fourth lap of this classic-to-be
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the many options for the 3rd pitch
Looking up at the many options for the 3rd pitch

Comments on Missionary Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About