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Missing Nothing 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Matt Clarke, John Wilder
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter/Early Spring
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: John Wilder on Feb 13, 2010

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overlay of the route

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a nice route- nothing spectacular, but it has a couple of really nice pitches on it mixed with a couple of okay ones. Start at the base of the very obvious chimney on the east face of the buttress. Pitch 1: Climb the chimney to a ledge 5.8, 80' Pitch 2: Climb straight up the crack, crossing two short face sections until you reach another crack- ascend this to a nice ledge. 5.8, 80' Pitch 3: Head up and right, aiming for the very nice looking seam on an orange headwall. Look at it fondly as you pass it on the right, ascending a ramp to a dead tree on a nice ledge. 5.6, 100' Pitch 4: Pretty heads up- Climb up and left onto another ledge, then ascend the face in front of you to another sloping ledge. From here, head up the seam in the middle of the face, continuing straight up when it runs out. Follow the face to a crack, then follow the crack up through a steep section to a nice ledge. 5.8+, 130' Pitch 5: Fight through the scrub oak to a ledge above, then head up and right to the top. 4th class, 200' or so.

Location 

The start of this route is the very obvious 50' tall chimney on the east face. Descend west, toward a ledge system below another wall, following cairns, eventually dropping left into a gully, then head back to the base.

Protection 

Rack up to about 4", a 5" can be used, but is not mandatory.


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By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Feb 14, 2010

The first pitch is worth climbing by itself. There is a tree at the top that one could set a rappel.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 14, 2010

Agreed, but the route, upon further consideration, is worth doing- the only slight detraction from the route is the third pitch- not because its terrible, but more because it isnt quite what you want it to be! The fourth pitch was quite engaging and fun, now that Ive had a night to think on it. The second pitch was just as good as the first, imho.

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