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5.7 Crack T 
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Missing Chickenheads 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: Arlo F Niederer on Jun 20, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Missing Chickenheads' location.

Description 

This climb is missing most of the chickenheads which are so prevalent on other areas of the formation and provides harder climbing.

Climb up a blocky ramp or the face to a high first bolt at the start of a bulge. Climb up steep rock, and clip the second bolt. A fingertips-only hold and stemming in a very shallow, right-facing corner will solve the crux.

Climb up a short trough to clip the third bolt. Face climbing on nubbins and smears lead past the next bolt and the start of a finger crack.

Clip the last bolt and use the finger crack and nubbins 20 feet to easier climbing and numerous chickenheads to the anchors.

The real name of this route is unknown, but I provided the name to avoid numerous "unknowns." If anyone knows the real name, I will change the name to the real name.

Location 

Just left of Chickenheads and Jams, this route can be toproped by leading Chickenheads and Jams and climbing easy rock up and left for about 20 feet to the anchors of Missing Chickenheads.

Protection 

5 bolts plus anchors. Bring finger-size gear to supplement the bolts in the finger crack if you are a "chicken."


Photos of Missing Chickenheads Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the route.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sue Kim above crux.
Sue Kim above crux.

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