Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
All Locations >
Colorado
> S Platte
> Badger Mountain
> Badger Flats
> Valley of The C…
> Chicken Rock
Missing Chickenheads
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 26
votes
Routes in Chicken Rock
|
|
5.7 Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Checkenhead Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Down on My Cluck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Just Flew the Coup S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
KFC T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
KFC Chimney Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Missing Chickenheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Osteofight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Three Amigos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Unknown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Unknown (10a sport with trad 10b second pitch) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unknown 10- S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,497 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Arlo F Niederer on Jun 20, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This climb is missing most of the chickenheads which are so prevalent on other areas of the formation and provides harder climbing.
Climb up a blocky ramp or the face to a high first bolt at the start of a bulge. Climb up steep rock, and clip the second bolt. A fingertips-only hold and stemming in a very shallow, right-facing corner will solve the crux.
Climb up a short trough to clip the third bolt. Face climbing on nubbins and smears lead past the next bolt and the start of a finger crack.
Clip the last bolt and use the finger crack and nubbins 20 feet to easier climbing and numerous chickenheads to the anchors.
The real name of this route is unknown, but I provided the name to avoid numerous "unknowns." If anyone knows the real name, I will change the name to the real name.
Climb up a blocky ramp or the face to a high first bolt at the start of a bulge. Climb up steep rock, and clip the second bolt. A fingertips-only hold and stemming in a very shallow, right-facing corner will solve the crux.
Climb up a short trough to clip the third bolt. Face climbing on nubbins and smears lead past the next bolt and the start of a finger crack.
Clip the last bolt and use the finger crack and nubbins 20 feet to easier climbing and numerous chickenheads to the anchors.
The real name of this route is unknown, but I provided the name to avoid numerous "unknowns." If anyone knows the real name, I will change the name to the real name.
Location
Just left of Chickenheads and Jams, this route can be toproped by leading Chickenheads and Jams and climbing easy rock up and left for about 20 feet to the anchors of Missing Chickenheads.
Protection
[6] bolts plus anchors. Previously, you needed to bring finger-size gear to supplement the bolts in the finger crack if you are a "chicken."
Per David A. Turner: an additional bolt was added at some time in the past, so no additional gear is now necessary.
2 Comments