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Missing, But Not Lost 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 1984, Todd Swain
Page Views: 123
Submitted By: Valerie Bachinsky on Jun 2, 2017

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Climb the broken chimney to a ledge, scramble up a slopey dirty ledge to the next short chimney. Go up the chimney (it was wet when we did it but had rained heavily the night before) and a corner to tree anchor.

One rap with 60 meter rope will get you down over Lichen 40 Winks.

There is a second 5.2 pitch which we chose not to do. If you want to climb it I suggest you bring some loppers. It looks as if it would be good with some cleaning.


Start a few feet right of Alpine Diversions at the broken chimney


It felt G to me except on the first slopey dirt ledge (or as G as 5.4 gets with all the 'ledginess')

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By Valerie Bachinsky
From: West Sand Lake, NY
Jun 2, 2017

I climbed this on a whim and thought the first pitch was worthwhile, with some good moves. It might be a good option in that area for 5.4 leaders, although the sloping dirt ledge atop the first chimney part may feel a bit sketchy to the new leader. The chimney above that ledge was dripping wet but it had rained heavily the night before; I can't say for sure if it is normally dry.

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