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Misplaced Childhood 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
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Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Dec 3, 2014

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Description 

Spectacular! This route (unlike the rest of the small sample of routes I climbed on my short visit) fully lived up to Siurana's reputation for thin, technical climbing with a stiff grade attached to it. The guidebook called it 7b (12b) and I'm calling BS. (the fact that it was post-rain and chalkless may have had something to do with my opinion though)

Approach by climbing Jeketepeke. Instead of clipping the chains, reach high off the ledge to a bolt out left and try and figure out the first move. Once you commit, hang on for a sustained and wild ride up this gorgeous, slightly overhung arete. Tenuous and technical movement links beautiful positions from bottom to top. Expect to have to work to clip some of the bolts.

The guidebook is a little unclear, but if you add the length for Jekepeteke (25m) and this line (also 25m) you get the impression that you need a 100m rope. This is not the case. We had a meter or so to spare with our 70, so watch your ends.

Location 

Technically this line is in the sector El Cargol, but is right next to El Pati and it's such a small sector that it didn't make sense to add a whole new wall for the handful of routes here... The climb starts in a crack splitting the west face of the tower that defines the right side of El Pati.

Protection 

Bolts


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By Ben Walburn
Apr 18, 2017
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

First pitch is a pile by Spain's standards. Skip the first set of chains and climb the second pitch it is full value and not to be missed. Super good and a sandbag at 7b.

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