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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Larry Treiber, Pete Noebels, Bruce Grubbs, 1978
Page Views: 916
Submitted By: max gibbons on May 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Best bomb this side of the Superstitions!

P1: Climb a thin low-angle crack, past bolt and face moves, to a small cluster of dubious little bolts below a bulge. Belay at this point, or pull a rockin move to gain a gritty slab. Traverse far left to a couple more substantial bolts for a belay. Linking up these first two pitches might cause horrific rope drag under typical conditions--fortunately this mudfest takes no gear, and your rope will glide effortlessly beneath you.
P2: By now your partner's got some misgivings of his/her own. Make a few steps left and climb up a furrow of grey rock with a couple solid bolts. Belay in an alcove above.
P3: Scramble to summit (choose your own adventure).


Approximately 100ft left of the Hart Route.


Some bolts. There may still be a few rattly cobbles to sling.

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By Pete Hickman
From: Tacoma, WA
May 21, 2009

We tried misgivings last August and were attacked by bees on the first pitch and base of the route. My partners were both stung a couple of times. Have you ever looked down from half way up a pitch to see your belayer running as fast as she can away from you and flailing her hands in the air?

The bolts are sketchy and that one move seems hard though maybe that has to do with the sketchyness and the bloodthirsty killer bees.
By clichtenberger
From: AZ
Dec 11, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a fun adventure route. The move over the two awkwardly placed bolts on the first pitch is probably 5.10 with some serious penalty if you take the fall. The rock is pretty crumbly on this section. The rest of the climb has better rock however the protection bolts are old (the old 1.5" drop in bolts). It is possible to slot cams here or there but I wouldn't want to fall anywhere on this route.

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