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Echo Cove - East Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ashtray, The T 
Crossroads T 
Effigy Too T 
Familial Feud TR 
Halfway to Paradise T 
Hatfield Arete T 
Hatfields and McCoys T 
Inhaler S 
Jughead T 
Little Fireman T 
Mis-Matched TR 
Misfits T 
Nit T 
Nitwit T 
No Mistake or Big Pancake T 
Real McCoy, The TR 
Snatch, The T 
Solo Dog T 
Teething Toy T 
Wheezer TR 
Wit T 


YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Borne & Tracy Dorton
Page Views: 2,080
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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at the stance between the two cruxes.


This excellent route lies about 50 feet uphill and right of Effigy Too. Start left and below a large boulder. [Beginning off the boulder and traversing left avoids the first 15+ feet of thin crack]. Up a very thin crack then into a left leaning corner (1st bolt). Continue up until established on face above corner (11a); another bolt protects moves to a horizontal. Head right around the corner then up face past the 3rd and last bolt (10b/c).

Lots of varied climbing and cool moves. Descend left, then down chimney (behind Effigy Too & Out On A Limb).


Very small nuts and cams for thin crack with gear in the .5 to 1 inch range. Runners helpful on gear in horizontal above 2nd bolt. A couple 2-2.5 inch pieces are needed if the bolt anchors are missing. Currently two bolt anchor (and should stay that way).

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By Murf
Jan 13, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Skip the thin crack?!?
By Randy
Jan 13, 2004

Maybe my description was not very clear. The route heads straight up the thin crack, but it is possible to avoid it (some people do) by traversing in left from atop the boulder. The route is definitely better if done from the ground, up the thin crack.
By ShortTimer
Nov 28, 2006

I honestly think this route deserves more than 2 stars. It was a good find by Paul and has some creative climbing with a quite interesting finish. Some good climbers have fallen off the crux getting over the bulge too.
By Kris Spevak
Nov 19, 2007

I loved this route, it's got a little bit of everything. Really fun-4 stars for sure.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 1, 2008

Bolted anchor is in place as of 11/29/08. Very cool climbing, technical rather than pumpy or hard pulling. Topout is "interesting" to say the least.
By pkeds
From: Redondo Beach, CA
Mar 13, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Ur cheating yourself if u skip the initial 15 feet. I felt it was a bit harder than 11a oh well
By dnaiscool
Mar 29, 2015

"Pinky" Paul told me about his new route, and I jumped on it ASAP. At the time, he gave it .11b, and I thought it was spot on...unless you compare it to the Left Ski Track...anyway, it is one of the best one pitch outings in the park, and I give it all the stars. If you are a 5.11 climber, then tick this one for sure!! gotta do the climb from the bottom for full effect...just sayin'...
By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Mar 9, 2017

I think this is one of the better 11s in the park. I give it a ton of stars.

I have always used double ropes on this one.

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