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Entrance Exam T 
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Mirror Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ? possibly Rusty Baillie and Roy Smith
Page Views: 1,563
Submitted By: phil broscovak on May 5, 2006

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Mirror Crack is a way cool route. You can clearly see this line on Rosy Lane Wall from the sister route Angel Dust on PCP pinnacle. You can also easily scope the climb from the road or the Rosy Lane campground on the opposite side of the river from the crag. As you look at the main wall some of the most obvious features are the prominent straight up splitter crack that starts about 1/3rd of the way up and ends at the pronounced flake that juts out left at about the 2/3rds height. Where as Angel Dust is a very straight forward crack climb Mirror Crack is more diverse and engaging. I believe there are two cruxes on this climb. The first and 'physical' crux comes early. Turning the bulgy overhang on what was traditionally the 1st pitch. The second and 'mental' crux comes at the end of the splitter crack. Turning the flake that sounds like a gong. After that it is a moderate romp to the top. We always walked off the back side.


Gear is generally very good on this route. But, there may be a few spots where not having the proper sized gear (small down low, big up top) could cause distress. Still this route is safe and exciting, a grand adventure.

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By mtoensing
From: Boulder
May 9, 2008

I did this route on Wednesday after a final. After the traverse, that flake is way sketchy and a little focus is needed to get to that other flake. I definitely give the traverse section to the other flake, about 20 feet, a PG-13 or S rating. #3 cams can be used in the flake above to get to the other ledge.

When I was on top of the last flake trying to mantel onto the last ledge, I broke a small rock off that I was using for my left hand and landed back on the ledge, thankfully. Watch out for loose rock on this buttress, especially the first pitch.

Crack is amazing though, to bad it didn't go another hundred feet. It is a cake walk compared to left hand, which is still pretty easy.
By mike bromberg
From: Revelstoke
Jun 10, 2010

There is a bolt anchor at the top of Mirror Crack that will land you back on the ledge with the large tree just barely with one 60m rope.

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