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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
Season: Year round
Page Views: 21
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Nov 20, 2013

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A brilliant Upper Wall testpiece, with a reputation for spitting people off!

Set off easily up the crack to a decent rest at a ledge about half way up. Place a nest of gear (medium-large nuts) then power up the continuation of the crack until it fades a couple of metres above the ledge. (It's possible, but strength-sapping, to place a small cam - about .4 or .5 - in this section.)

At this point you will really start to feel how steep the wall is as you make a couple of desperate lunges off crimps to gain good holds above. Much easier climbing up a narrow corner takes you to the belay bolts.


A thin, rightward-slanting crack with a curious "pancake" formation at the bottom (useful for anchoring a belayer on).


A full set of nuts, cams up to about .75. Bolts to belay at the top.

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