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Miracolo/Aura 6c  S 

Miracolo/Aura 6c  

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 24 pitches, 1900'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kaspar and Ruth Ochsner 2001
Season: Summer
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: Monty on Aug 6, 2015

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Awesome runnels on P14


Since the first few pitches of Aura are often wet, linking Miracolo into Aura has become very popular. The route climbs mostly immaculate stone with several amazing and varied pitches!

P1 (6a/10a): Locate where it says “Miracolo” at the base and climb the steep slab to a stance.

P2 (5b/5.8): Follow bolts straight up, then traverse hard left to the anchor.

P3 (6c/11b): Step right from the anchor and pull a roof. Continue up the face and pull another roof. Belay out left at an anchor that says “Miracolo.”

P4 (6c/11b): Hard moves off the anchor lead to a fun face and a pumpy roof. A good pitch.

P5 (6b/10c): A short pitch of steep slab that trends left (Notice the chained rappel anchor out right of the belay)

P6 (6a/10a): A really short pitch that is best linked with the next pitch.

P7 (6b+/11a): Cool face climbing to a pumpy overhang. (Notice the chained rappel anchor out right of the belay)

P8 (5a/5.7): Climb the gully left of the anchor (no protection) then traverse the ledge system left. Clip a bolt to gain access to the upper ledge system. Then walk hard left to a thread through anchor. If you look closely you will see “Aura” written on the wall, but it is very faint. Note: If you clip more than one bolt on this pitch, you might be starting up a different route.

P9 (6a/10a): Climb the slab above the thread through anchor.

P10 (6a+/10b): Traverse hard left, then pull a small overhang and climb straight up to an anchor on a large grassy ledge system.

P11 (grass): Scramble up and slightly left to a one-bolt anchor.

P12 (6a/10a): Climb up and left to a high first bolt. The second bolt is located in the face above a small right facing flake about 40 ft up and slightly left. Wander your way up to this bolt, and then follow bolts and a thread to the left. Easier climbing takes you straight up to the anchor on a ledge.

P13 (5b/5.8): Follow bolts on easier terrain.

P14 (6b+/11a): Climb up to a roof and pull the roof into some really cool runnels.

P15 (6b+/11a): Step left and climb pockets past a couple bolts. A very short pitch.

P16 (6b/10c): The money pitch. Awesome runnel climbing!

P17 (6b+/11a): Another really good pitch! Climb up and slightly left, then traverse right under a roof system, then straight up to the grassy ledge. The belay is to the left.

P18 (Grass): Best to unrope for this pitch as it is a full 70m. Belay at single bolt.

P19 (5c/5.9): Pull a tricky move to the first bolt, then angle left and continue up fun slab/runnels.

P20 (6b/10c): A short pitch on good rock.

P21 (6b+/11a): Another shorty on good rock with some longer pulls.

P22 (6c/11b): Yet another short pitch, but this time with some trickier face climbing.

P23 (6c/11b): Clip a bolt, traverse right, then lieback to a crux finish.

P24 (6b+/11a): Follow bolts to a final thin headwall.

Descent: Rap the route with 2x50m ropes


12 draws/slings. No cams or nuts needed.


The route is located (depending on time of year) a few hundred meters down from the Rosenlaui Glacier. The word “Miracolo” is visible in yellow paint a few feet up at the start of the route. If you are staring up at a wall that looks steep, continuous and very impressive… You’ve gone a little too far.

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