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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dan Hare, Kurt Gray, Charly Oliver, 1980
Page Views: 2,774
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of Boulder Slips.

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  • Description 

    This is one of the best moderate crack climbs I've done in Boulder Canyon: steep, sustained, and elegant. The broken rock at the start, and the vibrating flake near the top keep it from 4-star status, but it is still a very good climb.

    Walk west on the gravel pullout to the left side of the Boulder Slips formation. Hike up a path to the base of a broken slab. The striking hand crack of Minutia can be seen about 40' above.

    Climb up easy broken rock to the base of the crack. The fun starts here and doesn't end until you're at the belay. Jam and stem up the beautiful, steep hand crack to a ledge. Step right, and climb a short dihedral. Watch out for a vibrating flake near the top of the route; best to avoid using the tempting jug at its top.

    Clip the lowering hooks and lower 100' from a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the dihedral. It's also possible to belay from the top if you wish.


    On the left side of the Boulder Slips crag, about 100' above the road.


    Hand-sized cams. I sewed it up with a yellow Alien, 2 #0.75 Camalots, 2 #1 Camalots, 2 #2 Camalots, and 2 #3 Camalots; bolder leaders can get by with less. 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks at the top. Lower 100' from here.

    Photos of Minutia Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Boulder Slips Route Overview  1. Edges and Ledges,...
    BETA PHOTO: Boulder Slips Route Overview 1. Edges and Ledges,...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Minutia, a fabulous 5.8 crack and corner on the le...
    BETA PHOTO: Minutia, a fabulous 5.8 crack and corner on the le...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Moving higher.
    Moving higher.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Getting it done.
    Getting it done.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fun laybacking the crack.
    Fun laybacking the crack.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ron Olsen jamming the beautiful hand crack on Minu...
    Ron Olsen jamming the beautiful hand crack on Minu...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bruno Haché testing his flexibilty near the top o...
    Bruno Haché testing his flexibilty near the top o...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Yvonne D'Andrea doing the splits on Minutia. Bruno...
    Yvonne D'Andrea doing the splits on Minutia. Bruno...

    Comments on Minutia Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 2, 2017
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Oct 30, 2006

    4 star handcrack in BC gets one's attention...okay climb, best bit is about 20' in the middle (a bit funky to get into this bit). From a clucker: a set of cams to #3.5 Camalot (or #4 Friend), #9 hex, & wires worked. Funky block(s) just below the anchor makes you think 'ard about pullin' on it. Not quite as good as North Face Center, Cob Rock.
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 13, 2006

    A very nice climb, takes great gear and great practice for leading cracks. A bit sustained in places, it is no gimme. A climb well worth doing. You may wish to consider doubling up on #1 and #2 Camalots to really feel good.
    By Brenda Leach
    From: Sandy, Utah
    Nov 25, 2006

    Watch out for the loose block, about 2'H x 1'W, that's a few feet below the anchor. If you pull on it, it moves. Fun climb in the middle section.
    By Nick Wilder
    Site Landlord
    From: The Bubble
    May 6, 2007

    Awesome climbing that would be solid 4 stars if it was longer and didn't have the chossy start to get to the crack. The loose rock others mentioned is either gone or trivial to avoid. Easy pro and really fun moves the whole way up.
    By Bruno Hache
    From: Longmont, CO
    May 6, 2007

    I found that for a crack climb in this grade, it is a classic.
    The block mentioned by Brenda has been taken down late October 2006, early November 2006.
    Be aware that this line is at a junction between two rock walls.
    It is no surprise that there is some freeze/thaw stuff on this route.
    By Rich Kelly
    From: Boulder
    May 16, 2007

    I really enjoyed the jamming on this climb but felt very uncomfortable pulling on the block just below the chains. It sounds like there was an even looser one here. Anyway, if you use less optimum holds/jams around it you can minimize the pull force on the block.
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 2, 2008

    I climbed the route again on 3/1/08. I found some small loose rocks near the start of the crack, which I plan to trundle when the crag is less crowded.

    There is a big flake near the top of the route that vibrates when you tap on it, but it appears to be firmly anchored in the surrounding rock. You can get a good #1 Camalot in an overlap to the right, and avoid using the top of the flake as a handhold, without increasing the difficulty of the climb.
    By Rebecca
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Apr 29, 2009
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    A nice climb, I very much enjoyed it, and I am still a beginner trad leader. Gear places well, and the route takes nuts nicely in addition to all the cams mentioned before. Be careful if you use the gully up to the left for the approach as the rock is pretty loose in there.
    By jcntrl
    From: Smoulder, CO
    Oct 19, 2009
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    3-star handcrack on a 1-star crag. Worth doing if you're there anyway, but don't go to the 'Slips just for this climb.
    By Martin Harris
    Jan 21, 2011

    Bad beta on the number one in that crack as I saw one welded there a few months ago. If only I had more time, it would have been mine, but I had to meet a dudette in Eldo, so I had to stop fiddling.
    By Tombo
    From: Boulder
    Nov 30, 2013

    If you want to learn to climb hand crack at a moderate level, climb this route. You can lace it up and make harder if you want by avoiding any holds outside the crack. Wish it was longer.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Feb 12, 2014
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This is a great climb! Too bad the crack is so short.
    By jamandbees
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jan 25, 2015
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    This is a wonderful climb that's worth your time. A few of the early placements required some thought to get right, but there are some beautiful placements further up. I think this crack and the sport/mixed near it make this cliff a worthy day destination. Truly some surprisingly good climbs for such a small area.
    By Dirk Diggler
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Apr 5, 2016
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Awesome route. Doubles in BD #1, 2, and 3 were nice.
    By Daniel Joder
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 2, 2017

    Take a double-length runner, and clip the bolt to the left of the start of the crack--nice first anti-zipper piece. I used a #4 BD near the top of the hand crack but probably not necessary.

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