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Minnesotan Drift Wood 

Minnesotan Drift Wood 

Hueco: V9-10 Font: 7C+

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Caleb Holte
Page Views: 126
Submitted By: Hoez on Jan 23, 2013

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Start in a jug right on the lip coming up from an amazing (if it weren't chossy) cave. Basically campus into another jug, find a good foot (drop knee, toe jam, heel hook, wtv), and make an enormous move up and out left to a diagonal, left handed, crimp **crux**.

Hold on and maintain tension, moving up to another crimp with your right, and from this point on - hold on until the top...V5 +/- once you get your hands on the larger crimps.


This line is found, if looking at Francesca - directly behind you, to your left (7 o'clock)... about 15 yards back, within view site. Down a "hill" if you will... you'll see the big overhang. The route starts down under in a jug right at the lip.


A pad.

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By Hoboken
Nov 28, 2013
rating: V9-10 7C+

This prob threw me a bit. Firstly it wasn't so clean, lots of lichen on the crimps above the jugs which made the line hard to spot. Guess that stuff grows quick out here. Anyway it was quite fun and challenging. My only recommendation would be to straighten out that landing a bit and clean her up real good (the upper half while easy needs some serious love). If I had more time here, I'd gladly do this as the line deserves to be noticed. Nice one, Hoez.
By Hoez
From: Uganda
Sep 15, 2014

@Hoboken, this line was sent, and when I went out for a 2nd ascent, I blew a tendon and have thus been out from climbing this whole last year. Lichen doesn't grow fast- it just hasn't seen a lot of traffic.
By Coffmann
Oct 7, 2014
rating: V9 7C

Agreed that it feels more in the V8-9 range than V11. Incredibly lichen-y, required more pads to clean it than to actually send it.
EDIT: Might be worth noting that I'm a bit over 6', so none of the moves are that reachy for me. I'm able to do the cross to the good half-moon with the heel-toe lock.
By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Nov 23, 2014
rating: V9-10 7C+

I agree that this is not V11, but a good candidate for a V9/10 slash grade. I can definitely see how Caleb ruptured a tendon as well...offset feet and small crimps, with connective tissue absorbing the majority of the movement.

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