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Minimum Security 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ric Geiman, 1990
Page Views: 2,069
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001

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A must!


Minimum Security is a classic, exposed arete. Start with thin moves past the first three bolts on the technical slab. Clip the next bolts just prior to the business from secure but slightly loose terrain. Catch a rest before launching up the steep arete. The crux is nicely exposed adding to the heady moves. The chains were not equalized well and kinked up the rope. A must do!


11 bolts to anchors.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 10, 2016
By Jesse Ryan
Jan 1, 2001

Forgot to mention that it is one of the first routes on Freeform Wall as one approaches from the Campground. Should be obvious when you have found it due to the picturesque steep arete above the starting slab.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 30, 2002

FA: Ric Geiman, 1990.
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Mar 30, 2002

I just did this a couple of weeks ago to avoid the mob scene at Freeform. Better then 3 stars!!! I almost thought the start was the technical crux, the actual arete was just mind games and balance. Not as pumpy as I was expecting looking at it from the ground but lots of really blind- balancy-feely reaches. A MUST DO!!
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 17, 2003

I have to agree with Dave about the technical crux. It is probably in the first 20 feet of the climb. There are good rests after every hard section, so give this climb a try if it is near your leading limit. Don't pull on the loose stuff with chalk on it under the roof. None of these holds are needed for the climb.
By richard magill
Mar 23, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Excellent route - great position and fun climbing up a beautiful overhanging arete.
By Bob Rotert
Nov 10, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

One of my favorite routes at Shelf. One that has a lot of character & very unique compared to most routes at Shelf. Love the position & balancy climbing up the arete. Only thing that would make it better is if you had to do the roof to get to the arete instead of being able to traverse onto the arete. You can climb out under the roof to get established on the arête vs moving up and then traversing out, feet just above the roof, to the arete. Either way is awesome. Doing the roof a bit harder if your body mass index is up. I agree the first unprotected moves to the first bolt may be the technical crux. Stick clipping would be prudent if you don't feel solid on those moves.
By Noah G
From: Alma, Co
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Classic. Good photo ops on this one. Sweet position.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Mar 13, 2012

There would be a nice hard line up the overhanging wall just to the left of this route.
By ricgeiman
Oct 1, 2012

I also thought the wall to the left had potential. It looks incredible! After working it some on TR back in the '90s, I found that I really had to force the route to stay on the face. Maybe someone should have another look.
By Julia
May 21, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Do this climb if you want to pull on some sweet jugs and pockets and like feeling really exposed!
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2016

Great route with wicked exposure and some off balance and technical arete climbing. I liked this one.

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