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Penitentiary Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cell Life T,TR 
Climb and Punishment T,TR 
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 
County Lockup T 
Deception TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Jailbait T 
Life Sentence T,TR 
Minimum Security T,TR 
Possession T 
Rehabilitation T 
Repeat Offender T 
S&M / B&D T 
Speed is of the Essence T 
Sticky Zipper T 
Tax Evasion T 
Three Strikes T 

Minimum Security 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Gary Olsen, Chris Pendleton, and Bret Ruckman 1984
Page Views: 165
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence...


Minimum Security starts up the thin crack/seam just left of a tree. This is the first climb just right of the really wide crack called "Speed is of the Essence". The initial crack doesn't take any pro, so it would be a dangerous lead. Above, a flake affords small nut placements. The wall above has a bolt (1/4 incher) and a piton which climb through the crux. Apparently, the left arete is off route, which makes the route much harder.


This climb can be toproped after doing Jailbait or Climb and Punishment. The route is very runout, but has a bolt, piton, and some places for stoppers.

Photos of Minimum Security Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dancing with the Silica Swirls.
Dancing with the Silica Swirls.

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By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Jul 5, 2004

Very thin climbing on excellent rock! Deserves rebolting, IMHO.You would want to be at least an 11a slab climber to lead this route in it's present condition. Also, could use a new anchor. Currently, there is one slightly damaged bolt several feet back from the top of the slab, necessitating gear to toprope or belay on this route.
By Harvey Miller
Aug 3, 2004

The 1/4 inch bolt on this route seems highly suspect to me. It is a spinner and cratered behind the bolt. Beware.
By Gary Olsen
Mar 3, 2005

Hi, I hope the comment about bolting it means the old spinner. If it is the one I placed in 1984 someone ought to yank that sucker and sink a fatty. Otherwise I hope the route remains the same to make leaders think about gear. Have Fun and be safe!
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 3, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Magnificent lead, although I probably shouldn't have, knowing the condition of the bolt. The climbing was well worth it though. Small edges, thin moves, increasing exposure and tricky gear. All the makings of a classic.

My take on the Gear: It is small and sparse, with several long runouts. Down low in the initial crack, you have to spend a lot of time but I did get a couple of shaky nuts in (one brass). As the climb progresses, you can get your only "good" pre-bolt piece in the flake, again if you take your time. I used my only screamer on the bolt as it was the hardest move and I just couldn't believe how bad a shape it was really in. I was also able to get a small nut in just below the bolt. After the pin, I was able to get three quick pieces in, in a near-horizontal crack: Red Trango (shaky), orange Metolius (good), and a nut right on the arete (good). Finally run it out to the ledge, where I plugged a #1 Camalot to protect the last face.The anchor is a bolt with a badly mangled hanger, so bring more gear.

Descent: Traverse over to the slings on Climb and Punishment.

One more time... A great route with an extremely heady lead. Do this one on your best day.
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Sep 13, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Mike White from the ASCA replaced the original bolt a few weeks ago. I only placed three pieces that would have held a fall, all others were "mental" pro and probably would have held just more than body weight. Still, it was a good exercise in finding pro and overcoming mental barriers. I loved the consistency and the rock quality was stellar.
By Rachelle J. Ross
Jun 24, 2009

I agree with Nate. Climb this one on your best day, super heady with small frictiony foot placement and tiny crimpers if you're lucky. If you have never trusted your feet or aren't sure about the quality of your shoes, this climb could be revelatory for you whether you send it or not.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 13, 2012

Exciting! Leading this one ground up was a treat. You never know when your next gear will be! First good pro(micro's dont count for me) is about 15 feet up, bomber red c3. Then the flake takes some excellent gear, nuts and purple tcu. After running it to the bomber bolt, get stoked for the thin stuff, and punch it delicately to the pin. Decent 15 foot run there, with great holds appearing to clip the pin. Fight the urge to dequalify your ascent by using the bomber arete out left, and get one more solid nut in before the easier finish. All is all the gear is awesome, but is spaced. Don't be too afraid to hop on this one though. Good bolt/sling anchor round the corner from the topout, but build a gear off blue tcu's to allow minimal rope drag for TR.
By S.Cohen
Aug 11, 2014

Fun lead. If you climb 5.10 slab onsight in LCC hop on this one. Fun delicate climbing with good but sparse gear. The bolt is solid, as well as the pin.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Jun 6, 2017

Great route, pretty damn heady as an onsight, particularly the first 20' felt hard to read. Then there is the 15' run from your mental flake pro to the bolt. Sure would have been nice to have some small offset nuts for the moves right before the bolt. Not bad, but there are significant penalty points if you blow it.

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