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Mineshaft 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Evan Wisheropp
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 103
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Jul 18, 2017

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Taylor exploring to find a way to escape the first...

Description 

Mineshaft follows an ever steepening obtuse dehidral with great movement the whole way. Stemming turns weird as you head out right under the dihedral as it steepens into a roof. Tricky right arm stemming and opposition moves are required to exit the roof. Your ability to think in 3D with dictate how long you spend in the roof. Get creative!

After the first roof, there is a good rest followed by a second roof out right. Going left looks easier, but is harder and risks a ledge fall. Go right, straight above your bolt. Stem and a massive jug awaits you above the roof. The route finishes with 40' of moderate climbing.

If you pay attention to the bolt line, and extend certain clips appropriately (12" draws on some, and 24" slings on others), the rope will run nearly perfectly straight with no rope drag. I haven't tested clipping them all with standard draws, but I imagine it would be a nightmare.

Location 

Nearest route to the trunk of the live tree.

Protection 

11 clips, three are fixed draws now. The two bolts just after the first two fixed draws must be clipped with a sling.
Double chain anchor, clip the correct chains that equalize for this route.


Photos of Mineshaft Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul lowering off the Mineshaft after successfully...
Paul lowering off the Mineshaft after successfully...
Rock Climbing Photo: Go right at the second roof, straight up from the ...
Go right at the second roof, straight up from the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Crocket setting up for the first roof exit an...
Matt Crocket setting up for the first roof exit an...
Rock Climbing Photo: Funky fun exit from the roof on Mineshaft
Funky fun exit from the roof on Mineshaft
Rock Climbing Photo: Trevor clipping the fourth bolt from the hidden ju...
Trevor clipping the fourth bolt from the hidden ju...

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