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Eldora Summer Slab
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Minerva's Way 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Scott Allen, Tim Gale, Don Silver
New Route: Yes
Season: summer-fall
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: Scott S. Allen on Oct 19, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: View from road.

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Dedication & Description 

This route was inspired by and named for Minerva Canavan, 1928-2015. Min was an avid climber of 14er's, skier, hiker, and birder who knew these local hills well as a counselor at Camp Shoshone in the 1960s.

First ascent, I 5.6 A1 of pitch 1 rope solo ground up by Scott Allen in July 2015.

7 bolts were placed mixed with gear. The opening 3 bolts are 1/4" buttonhead, next 2 bolts are also 1/4", next 2 bolts are 3/8" x 3.5", and the anchors atop pitch one only are 1/2"x 4".

Most of the pitch is 5.6 once past the first 20 feet.

First free ascent of entire face:

II 5.8 PG-13

Led by Tim Gale on Oct. 17, 2015.

Pitch 1: locate the Black Canyon like start with three 1/4" bolts protecting the opening 5.8 moves. Then traverse hard right, and find the shattered lime dike leading to the galaxy of green crystals. Follow bolts and gear up and right through a loose hip-roof to the solid anchors.

Pitch 2: move the belay up 25 feet to the next headwall in the trees, and climb straight up to more trees (short lead of 50 feet).

Pitch 3 starts off clean but ends very runout and loose. Find a way upwards to the safety of small trees and belay (a long pitch, 150').

Location 

Minerva's Way is located on a separate crag from the Eldora Summer Slab. Find a marbled black and white pegmatite dike 300 feet left (east) and uphill from the Eldora Summer Slab.

Approach 

This is another short 'n' nasty loose talus fight above CDOT retaining fence.

The best line starts at the far west end of the fence and quickly gains slab, shrubs, trees, and such (avoiding the loose talus field directly below the start of pitch one.

Descent 

From the summit, walk east and find surprisingly pleasant grassy slope down into an aspen glen and gully to the highway.

Also possible to descend from top of pitch 1 via rappel or pitch 2 via down climbing but not recommended due to loose talus and falling rock onto vehicles on highway below.


Photos of Minerva's Way Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Gale following pitch 1.
Tim Gale following pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Gale leading pitch 2.
Tim Gale leading pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Veteran highway men, Don, Tim, & Scott refusing CD...
Veteran highway men, Don, Tim, & Scott refusing CD...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Allen following pitch 2.
Scott Allen following pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Don Silver following pitch 2.
Don Silver following pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Gale leading pitch 2.
Tim Gale leading pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Don Silver following upper part of pitch 1.
Don Silver following upper part of pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Allen following pitch 1.
Scott Allen following pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Don Silver on opening moves of pitch one, 5.8 on f...
Don Silver on opening moves of pitch one, 5.8 on f...

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