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0. Henderson's Buttress
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Achille's Heel T 
Bull Dog T,S 
Henderson T 
Mind Over Pinky and the Brain T 
No Guts, No Glory T 
Noonie Direct T 
Our Mine's I  T 
Pinky and the Brain T 
Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) T 
Two Stoned T 

Mind Over Pinky and the Brain 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Teresa Nagle, Bradley White, 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer and fall
Page Views: 1,491
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 10, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Route line in yellow and some hidden from view.

Description 

Once at Pinky and the Brain's first fixed anchor belay move up and right to ascend through an obvious break in the headwall ( 5-4). After that move up diagonally to move left and up to a two inch crack in the corner and belay or continue to the brain slab by climbing the face near the corner 15ft (5-6). Do second pitch of pinky and the brain. Do third pitch of pinky and the brain and continue up right of crack and back left to crack to mantle (bolt) and then traverse to awkward mantle small stopper for pro for (5-7) move onto another traverse ledge. Move left several ft to another 2 inch+ crack and belay (can be split into two pitches). Pitch four climbs headwall above crack (5-6) tricky sequence to large slab area below giant ceiling left and up is No guts No Glory. Keep moving on up directly until 2 bugaboos are found. Now the fun begins step down from last pin and traverse right on friction (5-7). Friction 20+ ft and become relieved there's a large friend placement under the overlap above this slab. Continue traversing 20+ ft (5-7) to reach giant block just past the overlap ceiling resting on a the ledge. Use the crack made by the block for protection climb it up to the other end of the block and belay. This is a fantastic 80ft pitch. Rappelling from here is problematic. Move right to belay under terraced bush and grass clumped 150+ headwall. Climb very difficult because of grass clumps wall with good but sparse protection for 80ft to excellent belay ledge using discretion to what rock is stable and what rock is not. climb again up to do grass clump pull up mantle past inclined corner moving left onto tree ledge. Jump for joy your out of the worst of it. Move left around house size rock headwall and up left side to top of cliff. Enjoy the panoramic view before enduring the walk off diagonally left to the trail down.

Protection 

This climb requires multiple 2, 2.5, 3 friends or cams. The belays and some of the climbing are the same size parallel crack. A double set should be enough. Don't do the friction face slabs without a number three friend or bigger. Otherwise a light trad. rack.


Photos of Mind Over Pinky and the Brain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A good shot of "The Brain" looking down ...
A good shot of "The Brain" looking down ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the blocky corner on Pitch 2
Looking up at the blocky corner on Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: top of pitch 3
top of pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: top of short south upward traverse pitch 4
top of short south upward traverse pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: The brain belay ledge and below that left of the c...
The brain belay ledge and below that left of the c...
Rock Climbing Photo: The width of the pinky slab
The width of the pinky slab
Rock Climbing Photo: Teresa leading pitch 2
Teresa leading pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Teresa leading pitch 2
Teresa leading pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Teresa leading pitch 2
Teresa leading pitch 2

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