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Jeremy Steck, about to stick the jam on Mind Bomb.
This is primarily a sport route with a few pieces of gear. Climb up the face passing 2 bolts to reach the overhang. Reach way out and clip the 3rd bolt with a long draw and then remove the piece in the horizontal at the base of the roof to reduce the drag. Reach out and follow the flakes in the overhang, clip the 4th bolt, and pull up to a stance with a hand jam (crux). From here, make a long reach to a horizontal and then traverse left and up to the pin. Climb up into the corner and follow the plated face to the finish.
Route just to the left of Toxic Hueco.
4 bolts, 1 pin, shuts. Bring a light rack. #3 Camalot fits best in the overhang before reaching out to clip the 3rd bolt in the roof, however a #1 Camalot also works well in one spot. .5 Camalot after the crux. A #1 Camalot, a few nuts, TCUs, and slings for the top. There are a few nice chicken heads that can easily be slung in the upper portion. As of 10/10, the first 3 bolts are looking pretty rusted out.
Jeremy Steck, heading into the crux on Mind Bomb.
May 20, 2014
I used a long runner on the first placement between bolts 2 and 3 rather than back cleaning it- the third bolt is in pretty bad shape. Additionally, make sure you put a long runner on the 4th bolt to prevent your rope from loading over the sharp roof - falls at the crux above resulted in a coreshot on a brand new rope.