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Minas Tireth 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, 2005
Page Views: 3,152
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Mar 31, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (117)
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Will at the crux.

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  • Description 

    This is a short route that climbs an arete and a roof between Road to Isengard and Lothlorien. About 15' of hard climbing on slightly crumbly rock.

    Start in the same spot as for Road to Isengard. Move up and right to a slab. It's a long way to the first bolt, but the climbing is easy. You might want to clip the first bolt on Road to Isengard and then move right. Clip two bolts on the slab and continue up to a steep headwall. Work up the left arete and move right onto a slab below the roof (crux). Clip the last bolt above the roof and turn the roof on the right. The 2-bolt anchor is just above.


    6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings.

    Photos of Minas Tireth Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dave getting the onsight!!!
    Dave getting the onsight!!!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Minas Tirith.  Start with Road to Isengard, then b...
    BETA PHOTO: Minas Tirith. Start with Road to Isengard, then b...

    Comments on Minas Tireth Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Cisco
    Apr 3, 2004

    I climbed this last week and to me it felt a lot easier than 10c, maybe 10a.
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Jul 4, 2004

    The interesting move over the roof merits a star.
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 13, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    The crux is moving right onto the slab under the roof; turning the roof past the final bolt is much easier. Beta: there's a good hold on the left edge of the roof; you just have to work high enough to reach it.

    When you lower, leave the last bolt below the roof clipped if your partner is top-roping. This will keep the rope from running across a sharp edge on the roof should your partner fall at the crux.
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 27, 2005
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This route is "Minas TirEth" 10a on Richard Rossiter's website:
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 20, 2007

    Actually a fun little climb. And for what it is worth, I found the route probably also goes around 5.10a by staying on the left arete and up over the overhang.
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    May 31, 2008
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Sort and suite. Very sequency at the crux.
    By Robby Cribbs
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 15, 2009

    Crux is very well protected. Try the toe hook under the ledge to move into the crux move. Although it wasn't a tall climb, it was definitely a fun one.
    By Joshua Kaiser
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 27, 2010

    Beware of loose rock. A couple climbing this last night went a little further right than the route was intended and pulled down a pretty decent chunk of granite. Scared the @#$! out of me, but nobody was hurt.
    By Paul-B
    Aug 11, 2012
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Fun route, but it really seemed to be a one (2?) move wonder. The roof is sequency and challenging, if you use the holds on the left face. I thought it was 10a, unfortunately, the rest of the climb is an easy 8 or less.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 3, 2013
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Meh, 1 or 2 hard moves, and the rest is way easier. Overall okay route.

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