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Mimosa 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Wolfe/Nutting 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 225
Submitted By: MisterE Wolfe on Aug 23, 2015

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Description 

Another 3-pitch .10b capped by a dihedral.
P1: (5.10b) SPORT/9 bolts/110': From the ledge, climb up and left to gain a fun groove through the slab. Continue up a short techy face to an arete. Balance your way up the arete (crux) to a right-tending ramp. Continue up and right, then back left to anchors. A belay bolt makes things more comfortable.
P2: (5.7) SPORT/9 bolts + 1fp/105': Move left, clip a bolt then mantle onto easy slab. Continue up fun, easy climbing. A short jug-haul delivers you to anchors and an cool stance below a dihedral.
P3: (5.9) MIXED/1 bolt, gear to 3"/60 feet: Climb the fun dihedral capped by a roof, then continue up easier terrain to the anchors. Great position with fun moves.

Location 

Continue up the buttress to a fixed rope. Climb the fixed rope and continue up to a dirt ledge supported by rebar and lumber. A belay bolt is available.

Protection 

10 runners, single pieces to 3", Mussy hooks,

3 rappels with a 70-meter rope.


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By Maidy
Aug 27, 2015

1st pitch has some nice moves of technical face climbing. 2nd pitch is easy ground but worth the scramble to get to the 3rd pitch - which is the money-pitch with an extra star in my book. Beautiful dihedral with great exposure. Wish it was longer.

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