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Milton Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Never Say Never 
Smeary Thing 
Undercling Problem 


Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,796
Submitted By: pfwein on Jul 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Hitting the lip on Milton.

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  • Description 

    Pull onto SW face of Milton Boulder, and go up to the obvious crystal with your right hand and sloping crimper several feet up and to left of crystal with your left hand. From there, shoot to the top (the best hold is a little right of low point) and mantel.


    This should be easy to find: if there is car parked West of Milton, it may block the problem. The SW face of Milton Boulder right of Milton problem has very difficult problems such as Never Say Never.


    This is not highball, and it has good landing, but a pad is nice for the many falls from the lip that a moderate boulderer may take.

    Photos of Milton Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The lip move on "Milton".
    The lip move on "Milton".
    Rock Climbing Photo: Slippery foot... engage!
    Slippery foot... engage!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lip move.
    BETA PHOTO: Lip move.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Trying the lefthand works.
    Trying the lefthand works.

    Comments on Milton Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By pfwein
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 19, 2009

    Colorado Bouldering by P. Benningfield rates V3. That's strange, as the inventor of the V rating system, J. Sherman, uses Milton as an example of the benchmark for V4. (See Hueco Tanks, Climbing and Bouldering Guide, 2nd ed., Chockstone Press Inc., 1995, p. 20).
    Not a big deal, but I've always been a little miffed at Benningfield: Milton does not seem like a problem to downrate.
    My beta: either R or L foot onto obvious, greaser hold, then go to top with L hand. I've seen others use R foot up and R of greaser hold, and go to top with R hand. Mantel exit is much easier but not totally trivial.
    I've done this on warm summer days: maybe it's easy when cooler. Beautiful moderate/hard problem.
    By Kegan Minock
    From: colorado springs
    Oct 10, 2011
    rating: V6+ 7A

    This thing is so much harder than V4. I send V9 with one session of working, and this thing took me 15 goes to send.
    By Austin Johnson
    Nov 6, 2012

    Fun alternate (Milton Dyno V5): dyno from the starting holds to the lip, and mantle over.

    Much more fun, in my opinion...compared to the original problem. Did both versions today, and this dyno was a lot of fun.
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    May 3, 2015
    rating: V4 6B

    Just did this thing again, after 20+ years. Still fun, and still felt stout for V4.

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