Million Dollar Baby
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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This route starts behind a 200 ft. pinnacle on the south end of it. I am sure the first pitch could be done on the north side as well but looks harder. The first pitch is a 5.5 chimney, with not a ton of pro but pretty easy, about 40 ft. I have seen people free solo the first part. Natural belay on a large ledge. Second pitch is the fun stuff that is mostly hands and wide hands up a slanting right strait-in crack for 160 ft. Belay from the top on a good ledge with a great view. The belay/rap ledge is north facing and kinda cold in the winter.
From the gate walk down the road for about a mile, almost parrallel with The Bant, head west into a side canyon. There is a climb or two on your right as you head west into the side drainage. Not far in you will begin to see a tall detached spire with the right leaning crack on the wall behind it. The climb is moslty east facing.
BD camalots: 2+3 triples, a couple 4s, and a 5 could work up top. I haven't climbed it in a while but I think a single set of smaller stuff like TCUs will more than work. Belay and rap from the top on 2 fixed pins with webbing. Double 60m ropes.
By Jaaron Mankins
From: Bayfield, CO
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
This is a pretty good pitch. As it gets wider, the angle eases back just a little. Cool spot.