REI Community
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
El Nino T 
Eye of the Storm S 
Galadriel T 
Gale Force T,S 
Incredible Huck S 
Millertime T 
Nancy Boy's Nightmare T,S 
Nancy's Wet Dream S 
Perfect Storm S 
Precipitation T 
Shin Pfein T,S 
Storm Front S 
Under The Weather T 
Weathering The Storm S 
Wilard Scott's Crack T 
Will It Or Won't It? S 


YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: SG,JJ '82
Page Views: 122
Submitted By: Jon Ruland on Nov 14, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


On the far right side of Weathertop is a north facing wall split on the right side by a nice-looking crack. This is the upper section of Millertime and it is noteworthy because it is a very fine crack climb by Mount Lemmon standards.

The full route is R-rated and has no fixed anchors. however, you can do Guinness Stout, the bolted 10- to the left of it, and toprope the crack by placing a #3 or #4 cam up high as a directional. If you like crack climbing it's worth getting on this, even if the crack itself is only ~5.8. There are sinker hand jams and solid fist jams to be had, and the face holds are only big enough for feet.


Standard Lemmon rack with multiple #3s and probably at least one #4.

Comments on Millertime Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 14, 2015

i'm going to contact the FA to get his thoughts on adding some fixed anchors and a bolt or two. this route is kind of a hidden jewel for crack climbers and it would be nice to make it a bit more accessible.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 15, 2015

Or, you could up your game until you can lead it Jon. You want to make it leadable for you by adding bolts. You justify this because there are not many cracks in Tucson. If we dumb down every route that many of us are not ready to lead what will the people who want to test themselves have. Please don't give me the "they can just skip the bolts" argument. You were able to TR it. Others can do the same. I don't think anyone would mind if you added lower off anchors. Just be sure and get them in the right place.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 15, 2015

nah eric i personally think the "just skip the bolts" argument is BS, the same as you. it sounds like you really don't want bolts added either. i was considering adding just the anchors after talking to you last night over email. maybe i'll do that.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About