Miller Pillar Rock Climbing
If you look closely you can spot the 8 bolts and t...
The two routes and descriptions from left to right are: Dingleberry Crack
(5.9)Trad, (FA.Unknown) Good pro for the most part. Climb a short wall to get to the dingleberry, then get pro in and climb around. Continue up to the short crux where the crack gets continually smaller until it runs out just after a fixed pin. Climbing above the pin to the anchors is the real crux because its a bit runnout.
Just to the left is The Right Cheek
(5.10+)sport(FA.Chad Suchoski 04) A bouldery start makes this climb much harder. A critical hold broke down low then looks to be chipped back in by some coward who wanted to bring the climb to his level. The crux is sustained through the first two bolts then eases up to .9/10 territory on reachy juggy holds. All bolts are 1/2in by 3 3/4in Powers bolts. Top anchors are 4 3/4 by 1/2in Powers bolts. The bolts are bomber. The rock is a bit loose and hasn't seen to many accents. Probably better for toprope unless you have it well in hand.
Descent is off the top to the right and meets up with the trail leading down from Castle and Flintstone Rocks.
The easiest approach to this area is from the Stage Road in Pine Canyon. From the parking lot, the walk in is about 15 minutes. The rocks come in full view as you approach an obvious stream wash crossing the road. An easy approach trail leads up and left of the major rock outcropping to the base of this rock. Continuing up the trail gets you to Flintstone Rock and further up to Castle Rock. Miller Pillar lies below Flintstone Rock about 200 yards and is not set far in from the Stage Road. It is back and left of the very large rock outcropping that sits very close to Stage Road as seen in the photo.
Climbing Season For the Pine Canyon area.
Weather station 2.6 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Miller Pillar
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Miller Pillar:
Featured Route For Miller Pillar
Dingleberry Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a California
: San Francisco Bay Area
: ... : Miller Pillar
This route starts on face moves then quickly moves to hand jams and stemming. The gear is solid but the rock on the face to the outside of the crack is not so much. Try and stay deep in the crack. The crux comes high while moving past a (questionable)piton and a diminishing crack to more face moves. Its a bit runnout above the pin. Feeling squirrelly, top rope it. Its a great lead, but a more convenient top rope. Side note: I almost stuck my hand in a bat...watch out....[more] Browse More Classics in California