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Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP)

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Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.6422, -83.6789 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Raiden on Mar 23, 2015

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Jed starts the slopey crux on Fruit by the Foot (...


The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) was acquired in 2012 by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition with assistance from the Access Fund's Land Conservation Campaign. As of early 2015, this 309 acre area has over 20 established crags and several hundred routes, with potential for many more.

Getting There 

Heading south on KY11 from Miguel's (or the Mountain Parkway), drive just past Koop's gas station and hang a left onto Shumaker Ridge Rd. Follow Shumaker for 3.2 miles until you see two entrances on the right - turn onto the second one which is Hell Creek Rd. There should be a wooden sign that says "MFRP" marking this road. Go down Hell Creek Rd, bearing right just before it meets the river for the first time. Drive parallel to the river for a little while until you see a large gravel parking lot on your left with a kiosk (just before the road crosses the river again). Park here - all area approaches begin from this parking lot. The parking lot GPS coordinates are 37.642204, -83.678900.

Google Maps directions from Miguel's to MFRP parking lot:

And a trails map showing the approaches to the various walls.

The guidebook can be purchased online or at Miguel's as well.

Guidebook (Mo' Beta) 

The MFRP is a newer area not documented in any previous RRG guidebooks. However, Ray Ellington released the new MFRP guidebook on October 7, 2015, just in time for Rocktoberfest. A PDF sample of the book is available online.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.1 miles from here

218 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',31],['3 Stars',103],['2 Stars',71],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP):
Little Wing   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   Secret Garden
Hippie Lip Balm   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Secret Garden
Lithuanian Princess   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   Chaos
Call Me Maybe   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   The Record Shop
Road Kill   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Coopers Cove
Jew Jew Fruit   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Fruit Wall
Mellon Baller   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Fruit Wall
Tesseract   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 55'   The Portal
Porphyria   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   The Infirmary
Sloppy Seconds   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Secret Garden
Linear Regression   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 85'   Secret Garden
Hammer Time   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   Serenity Point
Witness the Citrus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 95'   Fruit Wall
Breakfast at Koops   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 65'   Fruit Wall
Return of the Mohan   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 55'   Serenity Point
Banana Hammock   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 95'   Fruit Wall
Grim Reaper   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 100'   Graveyard
Last Rites   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 100'   The Infirmary
Swamp Gator   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 60'   Chaos
Singularity   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Portal
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP)

Featured Route For Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP)
Rock Climbing Photo: Rachel's Project

Coroner (a.k.a. Rachel's Project) 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : ... : The Morgue
This route is incredible. Climb solid edges on beautiful golden rock to a well-defined crux sequence near the top of the climb. Climbs through a large hueco at about 18'.This route is listed in the current MFRP guidebook as Rachel's Project....[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

Comments on Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
Oct 5, 2016
A more up to date map of the trails can be found here:

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