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Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP)

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Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 811'
Location: 37.6422, -83.6789 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 86,155
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Raiden on Mar 23, 2015
Forecast:
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46°
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80° | 58°
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69° | 48°
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52° | 34°
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BETA PHOTO: Map of the preserve with trails

Description 

The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) was acquired in 2012 by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition with assistance from the Access Fund's Land Conservation Campaign. As of early 2015, this 309 acre area has over 20 established crags and several hundred routes, with potential for many more.

Getting There 

Heading south on KY11 from Miguel's (or the Mountain Parkway), drive just past Koop's gas station and hang a left onto Shumaker Ridge Rd. Follow Shumaker for 3.2 miles until you see two entrances on the right - turn onto the second one which is Hell Creek Rd. There should be a wooden sign that says "MFRP" marking this road. Go down Hell Creek Rd, bearing right just before it meets the river for the first time. Drive parallel to the river for a little while until you see a large gravel parking lot on your left with a kiosk (just before the road crosses the river again). Park here - all area approaches begin from this parking lot. The parking lot GPS coordinates are 37.642204, -83.678900.

Google Maps directions from Miguel's to MFRP parking lot: goo.gl/maps/9KQWi

And a trails map showing the approaches to the various walls.

The guidebook can be purchased online or at Miguel's as well.

Guidebook 

The MFRP is a newer area not documented in any previous RRG guidebooks. However, Ray Ellington released the new MFRP guidebook on October 7, 2015, just in time for Rocktoberfest. A PDF sample of the book is available online.

Waiver and Rules 

The Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at MFRP complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement before climbing at MFRP.

  • Do not park next to oil wells. Do not block oil wells or oil 
workers’ trucks.
  • Please climb responsibly and follow “Leave No Trace” 
practices. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
  • All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
  • Stay off all tagged projects and do not touch or use any project 
ropes, draws, or other gear.
  • Hike on established trails and do not mark or damage trees or  other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to  the establishment of any new crags or trails.
  • No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts is 
permitted.
  • No operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is 
permitted.
  • No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in 
the area and the enormous threat a forest fire in a region of 
numerous oil wells would pose.
  • Overnight camping (no long­term camping) is permitted as long 
as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil 
equipment. 

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.1 miles from here

226 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',32],['3 Stars',107],['2 Stars',68],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',9],['5.8',15],['5.9',15],['5.10',57],['5.11',75],['5.12',43],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP):
Little Wing   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   Secret Garden
Hippie Lip Balm   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Secret Garden
Lithuanian Princess   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   Chaos
Call Me Maybe   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   The Record Shop
Jew Jew Fruit   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Fruit Wall
Road Kill   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Coopers Cove
Tesseract   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 55'   The Portal
Sundial   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Serenity Point
Sloppy Seconds   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Secret Garden
Linear Regression   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 85'   Secret Garden
Porphyria   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   The Infirmary
Hammer Time   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   Serenity Point
Brachial Plexus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 80'   The Infirmary
Witness the Citrus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 95'   Fruit Wall
Return of the Mohan   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 55'   Serenity Point
Breakfast at Koops   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 65'   Fruit Wall
Banana Hammock   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 95'   Fruit Wall
Grim Reaper   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 100'   Graveyard
Last Rites   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 100'   The Infirmary
Singularity   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Portal
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP)

Featured Route For Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP)
Rock Climbing Photo: Cowboys

Cowboys From Hell 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : ... : The Record Shop
Tough crimpy face that starts on top of the boulder 20 ft left of Born in the USA....[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

Comments on Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
Oct 5, 2016
A more up to date map of the trails can be found here:

rrgcc.org/rrg-info/mfrp/MFRP.p...

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