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Millennium Falcon 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Commander Cronin
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall: 100% Shady All Day.
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: BBQ on Aug 3, 2014

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Betcha can't do this route in 12 Parsecs or less!

Description 

A route that deserves more stars than in gets in the guidebook. Has been described as having holds, for the first two bolts, that are always sandy like Tattooine.

The opening holds are actually bad ass if you just use em' right! Think of it as escaping Luke's shithole of a home planet. BUT! By the time you reach a series of sick, hard to read pockets at the second bolt, you are in the stratosphere roof sequence. By now the sand is gone and you better find the right holds and hang on tight. Get your ass into orbit because the Millennium Falcon will shoot you down if you are a puddly padwan.

The climbing becomes glorious after that slightly sandy annoyance and the rock becomes sick! Climb the fabulous asteroid field of crimps to BASTARD UNDERCLINGS! Find your way to a dihedral sequence that involves powerful, precise pulling over the bulge from Jabba's bowels. Find holds on the right side of the bolt line...find the right combination of feet...and stick some sick crimps just right to a jug. SICK SPORTY CRUX SEQUENCE!


For the final moves, get caught in a tractor beam of beautiful jugs, ledgey feet and one last hard sequence with massively positive crimps to gain the anchors.

Location 

Found to the right of a massive crack system just past Shady Lady. Located to the left a huge black ramp of rock that is to the left of Choobies.

ROUTE FORKS RIGHT! The bolt line on the left is a 5.12c known as Star Fighter.

Protection 

10 quickdraws. Open Anchors.


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