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14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Central Crack T 
Exasperator T 
Glass factory T 
Groovey Grubworm T 
Kudzu Corner T 
Millenium Falcon T 
Odin T 
Running Free T 
Twisted Schister T 

Millenium Falcon 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jay D. & M. Shoemaker
Season: Spring/Summer/Fall - Mixed climb in Winter
Page Views: 53
Submitted By: Jay D. on Jun 7, 2013

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Description 

The climb starts directly where you will approach the cliff up the talus field. Start up a dihedral to some thin cracks onto a right-facing crack and the crux followed by a two-bolt belay on a small ledge. (P2) Start up and right, clip a pin and bolt then trend straight up to two corners and some blocky terrain on the left. I climb the central corner directly to the tree, where you will find a webbing anchor/rappel point. With a 60M rope you can do the whole thing in one very long pitch. A 70M adds a sense of security.

Location 

At the top of the talus field on the far left side of the cliff, left of Groovy Grubworm you should be able to make out a crack system that kind-of looks like a gourd.

Protection 

Cams up to 3" and a few bolts/pins


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