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Millenium Falcon 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 132
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Aug 29, 2011

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The basic line, the route goes on for another 15-2...

Description 

This route is quite good but not a good intro to 5.9 trad climbing. Start on the route Diagonal 5.6 and follow that crack for about ten feet, from here balance and technique up the face above using obvious seems for protection. (In one vertical seam there is a perfect .75 pod that shows itself when it looks like it will take no more gear.) The crux of this route is the 15 feet of climbing after leaving Diagonal 5.6, with the hardest move being a awkward step left onto a small foot.

The route could use a good cleaning and might actually make it better and possibly a little easier.

Location 

climb Diagonal 5.6 for ten feet the dance straight up the face to trees.

Protection 

Standard rack, protection is a little awkward sometimes.


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By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Aug 29, 2011

My good friend Bruce Althouse led this route onsight and ground up with absolutely no route knowledge, it was quite impressive! With that said we think this route has been climbed before because of it close proximity to the road and evidence of other climbs there, but we like the name we came up with.

The name we have given this route refers to a few things. We joked that this was the FA of this millennium (Millennium FA) and when we topped out a large falcon flew off so it became Millennium Falcon. However, if people have any other information please let me know and I will update the description!

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