|Type:||Trad, Sport, 14 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||blakeherrington on Aug 18, 2008|
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|Comments on Millenium Falcon||Add Comment|
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By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Jul 30, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
We climbed the "lite" version... i.e. the 10p through Bellygood. 97 degree temps and full sun above dissuaded us from continuing.
A fun climb, but definitely not as classic as the Grand Wall in my opinion. The cruxes are short and the climbing mostly well protected. It seemed about as hard as the Grand Wall to me. It was definitely scruffy, but it just opened a few weeks ago so that might explain the dirt.
P1 - (5.8) No big deal. Dirt to a chimney. 40m
P2 - (10b/c) The only long pitch. 45-50m. I had a double set of TCUs and still ran out, though good nuts were still available. Fun climbing with occasional liebacky cruxes. Lots of crack switching keeps it entertaining. Great pitch.
The rest of the pitches are all 30-35m or less.
P3 - (10d) Best pitch on the climb IMO. A well protected finger crack leads to a bolt and tricky (and reachy) step left. You gain another crack which is tricky to protect. A #1 goes in a pocket/flair half way up. It is protectable, but you'll work for it (tricams might work great) Fortunately the climbing isn't too difficult. Another bolt and then some scrappy climbing to the belay.
P4 - (11a) Fully bolted, awkward climbing up low-angle twin aretes. Plenty of bolts keep it safe enough, but not particularly enjoyable to me. Sort of like a bad sport climbing pitch... but YMMV.
P5 - (5.8) Fun but dirty chimney. Step left to avoid the giant hanging chockstone/deathblock.
P6 - (5.9) One move wonder, and then up some dirt/ledges to the belay. I clipped the anchor and walked left to the anchor for the next pitch. It's exposed getting to the anchor, so you'll want to stay ropped up.
P7 - (5.10d) Crimpy bolted climbing off the belay to a precarious mantel and foot traverse left. A little spicy for the leader moving left. The follower can make most the hard moves and then unclip. Up the 5.9 crack (dirty topout) to the belay.
P8 - (5.10d) Burliest pitch of the route IMO. The crack demands jamming of all sizes, and although short is a steep mother effer. I placed everything from a 0.5 camalot to #4 camalot on this short pitch. Sloppy, sweaty jams (97 degree temps) increased the difficulty ;) The "magic tree" is totally sketchy. I accidentally stemmed off it a few times and it was CREEPY. After the crack ends expect some slightly scary root/tree pulling with some tree tieoffs until the final move right (one bolt) to the belay.
P9 - (5.9) Awkward face climbing with occasional gear and 3 bolts to the belay atop the arete
P10 - (5.10b) Surprisingly physical lieback crack to the finishing 2 bolt lieback to Bellygood.
BE CAREFUL TOPPING OUT!! Arrowroot and Rutabega are directly below and even a small rock could kill someone!!!!
Gear: One set of nuts, two sets of cams from small TCUs to #3 camalot. One #4 camalot (optional, I placed it on the magic tree pitch). The only gear hog pitch is p2, the rest of the pitches are short. I put alot of gear in the short P8-Magic Tree crack, but it was pretty hard for me in the heat.
By Monica Jones
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 21, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|Last four pitches are so awesome and not to be missed. I led the 10a and final "Gold Medal Ribbon pitch", which definitly felt like 11b to me. It was one of the coolest pitches I've ever done, anyone doing this route has got to finish it up!|
By Eric Hirst
Aug 31, 2011
As Andy said, definitely be careful topping out from p10 onto Bellygood. Lots of loose gravel/rock perched there. Belaying from the bolts there (easy to miss) rather than from a tree may help.
I wasn't expecting much, but ended up loving this route. Great variety and surprise, fantastic position, and very little "throwaway" climbing.
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|Using a 70m rope, we linked P1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12 and pitch 13 with the 5.10 part of the crux pitch. Were able to get the crux pitch in the shade by linking these pitches.|
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 2, 2015
Rick has great beta for a 70m rope. It literally cuts the first 10 pitches in half!
You do have to do some tree simuling to make the P1 & P2 link happen. I think ropedrag was bad for this. Perhaps it's more fun and more climbing to link the first two on Sunset Strip and then climb P2 of Millenium Falcon as normal.
I'd suggest 15 draws/slings and 1x more green and yellow alien. #4 was not necessary as long as you wait to place the #3 on the magic tree pitch.
By Mark Straub
From: Berkeley, CA
Aug 2, 2016
|The first 10 pitches of this route (to Bellygood) are phenomenal and highly recommended. Varied and interesting climbing makes this one of my new favorites. Pitch 11 and 12 are also pretty fun, and you can walk down some zig-zag ledges from here to reach Bellygood. Pitch 13 was relatively dirty/gravelly, pretty hard, and not that fun in my opinion. If you like 5.11 slab, it may be worthwhile. I did not try Pitch 14 (the "Gold Medal Ribbon"), but my partner bailed after 15+ whips up high. Apparently, this pitch is pretty hard, and the bolts near the top are pretty far apart. I'm not sure about the 5.10 variation pitches; they looked dirty, but may be fun nonetheless.|