Millard Canyon Rock Climbing
The camp host has a 3rd grade education
MUST DISPLAY A FOREST ADVENTURE PASS HERE
Millard Falls is an aid climbing practice location in either an awesome setting (prior to 10 am on weekdays) or a terrible setting (any other time). The climbs ascend the solid very water polished granite right next to Millard Falls. Since this area is only a few minutes from LA and has a 75' waterfall it can get absolutely packed with families, rednecks, rangers, and the general LA populace. The climbs are bolt ladders that are either bomber or really scary. Oh, and your rope will get wet. Unless the falls have dried up, it'll fall right into a pool after you rap off the routes. These routes might even go free! Post up any info about that if you have it.
There are two good routes worth doing and at least one scary one. The Left Ladder is easiest and straightforward. All you need is draws
The Center Ladder (just right of the left one) is good but you'll need to stick clip the first bolt. There is a short section of 5.8ish after the 3rd bolt or you'll need a stick clip. This thing has to go free. If it wasn't for the moves getting to the first bolt, it looks 5.10. The first couple of moves off the ground look really hard. All bolts are good on this one.
The Right Ladder is hard on very poor bolts and ends at a poor 2 bolt anchor. Pro is 5-7 rivet hanges, hooks, Doubloons, and a cheat stick?
I really recommend going early morning on a weekday and you'll have the place to yourself. On the weekend or anytime after mid morning, well.... just be ready for half of LA to be standing around next to you. I won't say you can't go during these times since there are no rules in place, but just think about how a family hiking to see a waterfall will feel about you kicking around right next to it. That being said, it's not really a wilderness experience on the weekend anyway. There are also some houses you pass on the way in up on the creekside, stay on the trail and out of their yards.
Camping: The is a campground here, but not very secluded. It's sort of right next to the main trail / road about 200 yeards from the parking lot. It has picnic tables and fire rings.
Season: Year round. Right after rain, the falls will really be going and while the routes are not under it, you will get a decent amount of spray.
Dogs: Are allowed if kept on leash. I was told that the rangers WILL ticket you $300 if they see Fido off the leash or you don't pick up the poo!
NOTICE: If anyone hassles you about climbing, please cite Howard Okamoto, the USFS Recreation Officer for Angeles NF, River District, which includes Millard Falls. Apparently the campground host has taken it upon himself to be rude to climbers, but cannot technically ticket anyone since it's not illegal to climb in the Angeles National Forest. He can cite you if you threaten him or place new bolts. Just be polite and go about your business. supertopo.com/climbing/thread....
Howard S. Okamoto
R5, Angeles NF, Los Angeles River RD
12371 North Little Tujunga Canyon Road
San Fernando, CA 91342
818-899-1900 ext 229
From Highway 210: Exit Lake Ave in Pasadena and follow it north all the way to the end (3.5 miles) and follow it as it curves left into Alta Loma. Follow Alta Loma to Chaney Trail (1 mile). Follow the circuitous Chaney Trail road north staying left until you reach the parking area for Millard Falls (1.6 miles, A.K.A. NF-2N65). Follow the Brown Mountain Truck Trail northeast back past the campground and follow the trail that hugs the creek. You'll dead end at the falls (about a 15-20 minute hike). You really can't get lost from the parking lot, just follow the signs.
Weather station 2.4 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Millard Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Millard Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Millard Canyon:
Featured Route For Millard Canyon
: Los Angeles Basin
: ... : Millard Canyon
This slightly overhung bolt ladder is in a an amazing setting only a very short drive from Pasadena. As long as you show up early enough, you'll love it, but show up late or on a weekend and be prepared to perform for the crowd. The first bolt sheared off in 04/29/2002 and was replaced with a 3/8" rawl.I've seen people banging pins in for a belay at the base, which I could see for soloing, but is certainly unnecessary when belayed by your partner. Does the belayer really need to be anchored w...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: Millard is still closed 11/29/10
Aiding up the left bolt ladder.
Ahh, the beauty of the Angeles National Forest.
Boulder just northeast of parking area. It has a ...
Entrance sign at the parking area for Millard Fall...
Millard Falls. Not flowing very fast here. Climb...
Mar 23, 2010
just to get the facts straight . im the camphost at millard . i had earlier complaint from a family with kids playing under rock climbers , for there childrens safety at millard falls . i called usfs dispatch they talked to a l.e.o. and i was informed no climbing without a permit . afterwards one who made comment ,that i took on my own to disalow rock climbing was wrong . apperently after above incident howard o. said its okay . hes in charge of recreation activitys in this area for the U.S.F.S . since he now says yes . thats what i go on now also . but plz do not pound in canyon walls anymore rock climbing bolts etc . its getting to be a eye sore . anyhow millard area may be open to public sometime in april ,its closed now mostly of safety reasons from very bad floods and mudslides . lonnie
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jun 14, 2010
Dear Camphost, thank you for the explanation and information.