REI Community
Black and Tan
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Eyed 
Filla Void 
Kids Are For Chicks 
Milky Way 
Unsorted Routes:

Milky Way 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Emerson Takahashi on Sep 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Milky Way traverses the face through the awesome l...

Description 

A stellar line of pockets!
Several variations exist, my personal favorite uses two monos :)

Fun line to a nice mantel

Location 

Sit/squat start in the left-most pair of pockets just above Blue Eyed, and make fun moves through the pockets to the right. About 3 moves in, you can go up with your left to a decent mono(and them move to another mono with your right), or make an awkward left cross to a slightly better hold. Easy topout, just find the pocket in the back.

Protection 

Landing is a bit awkward, 2 pads should cover it


Comments on Milky Way Add Comment
Show which comments
By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Sep 13, 2014

Guide books call this one easier than blue eyed, but from the proper start, it feels more like v4
By Brian Koralewski
From: Springville, Utah
Nov 20, 2015
rating: V3 6A

Caldiero's guide calls it a stand-start well to the right of Blue-Eyed lie, starting on a left-hand gaston, and heads up past a nice mono hold. 2-3 moves to a grovel top-out. If the traverse in from Blue-Eyed lie is added in, it should probably be considered a separate, new line.
By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Nov 23, 2015

I think previous guidebooks have described the line as starting the same as Blue Eye, but I would have to double check. (Isaac's seems to have a handful of errors, though it's hard to blame due to the mass amount of boulders in Joe's...)

The line of pockets leads right into blue eye though, so to me, starting to the right felt too much like starting from halfway in. Either way, pretty fun moderate

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About