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Milky Way 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ron Cotman, Gordon Briody, Pauline Hsieh, Mike Croswaite
Page Views: 277
Submitted By: ScottH on Jan 29, 2006

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Milky Way is the 3rd bolted route from the right side of the Pearly Gates buttress, and begins up an obvious, left facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral (5.10), traverse left ~15 feet, and follow a line of bolts up interesting, slabby climbing to a ledge and belay from chains. The second pitch (better than the first) heads up straight off the belay for another 100' of fantastic climbing. After the initial 5.10 moves up and out of the dihedral, this climb delivers close to 200' of consistent, interesting 5.9 climbing.

Getting off this climb is a rope stretcher! When lowering off the second pitch our 60m rope wasn't quite long enough to reach back to the ledge-- the climber can lower to the left of the belay and downclimb easy terrain. Likewise, reaching the ground from the ledge may require a two rope rappell (even with 60's). Alternatively, walk right on the ledge to the Dog Ate My Topo anchors.


P1- 8 bolts, P2 9 bolts

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By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jul 16, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

As of 6/29/14 the first bolt has no hanger on it.

This was probably done intentionally by someone as there is plenty of gear to be had in the dihedral. Bring a piece or two for this section as this is the ~.10b crux of the route.

The 15' traverse left is pretty easy (~5.7). After that it's sustained, fun 5.9 for the rest of the pitch.

Second pitch is definitely worth doing. Slightly easier than the first and not as heady.
By Jacob Sustrich
May 31, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

This route is wicked. The climbing until you clip the first bolt all felt very insecure for me. I think I placed a #2 in the lower crack from the starting stance, and then a .5 a bit above before reaching the bolt. The feet until the first bolt are all super smear-y and hard to keep (for me). So, if the first bit is putting you off this route, just get through it and you won't regret

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