REI Community
search
Milky Way Wall

Select Route:
Crossing the Milky Way T 

Milky Way Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,100'
Location: 37.32637, -119.40835 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 87
Administrators: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Riley Daly on Jun 29, 2017
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This large, 700 foot southwest-facing wall has some superb multipitch climbs. The routes are mostly lower angle on runnels, cracks and knobby faces.

Getting There 

The trail to this wall shares its start with the trail to the Eagle Beaks. After branching off and reaching the MIlky Way Wall, the trail continues up to the Incinerator Area. The trail is well marked (cairns) and cleared, but it can be easy to get off trail if not paying attention. Elevation gain is 700 feet.

From the end of 7S02H a climber's trail heads left through some pine trees. Follow this to an old logging road and a brushy clearing. Follow the "road" only 100 feet until forced up left a bit, and then aim through the clearing, staying as level as possible. Continue through another clearing and you'll see a small house-sized boulder on the right. Cross the creekbed on the left to two huge trees hollowed out at their bases by fire. Head up past the tree (left) and through a grove of pine trees. Stay along the right edge of the grove whilst heading uphill and to some boulders. The trail winds across the back side of a large boulder to cross the creekbed. Now head uphill, drifting right and following the path of least resistance. At the next creekbed head up the creel only 25 feet and then go right past a small boulder. Drift up and right through the steep hillside. A few (steep!) switchbacks will lead right to a small house-sized golden boulder. Pass along its right side and up the sandy hill. Just as the trail nears a bouldery creekbed you'll see a fork. Take the left fork and start heading up towards low-angled 4th class slabs. Follow the right edge of the slab and follow cairns up to the base of the Milky Way Wall. Following the trail will lead you through some high bushes and finally to the left side of the wall. To the right is the Orion Area (routes 5 - 7), to the left is the Supernova Area (routes 1 - 4). To reach the route Edge of the Galaxy and the Invinerator Area, head left past a small pine tree then up through some boulders and tic-tac up the steep slope on cleared trail to the upper zone. This is also the descent trail if topping out the Milky Way Wall.

APPROACH TIME: 50 mins up, 30 mins down.

Morning shade and then afternoon sun.

GPS marker here shows the trailhead.

Climbing Season

For the Shuteye Ridge area.

Weather station 8.1 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Milky Way Wall

Crossing the Milky Way 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  California : Southern Sierra : ... : Milky Way Wall
"One of the best long, easy routes in the area" The entire climb trends left, so if you're looking up to find bolts or the route, look left. P1 - 5.7 - 45m: 2 bolts, gear, gear belay. Start at the extreme right edge of a ledge. Climb a left-slanting seam (feet) to a bolt at the top of the seam. Then climb over bulges to a small pocket at the base of the first large water runnel (.75") then left to a bolt and belay at the bottom of the obvious dihedral. P2 - 5.8 -45m: 2 bolts, ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Milky Way Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About