REI Community
5.8 Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 
Arm and Hammer S 
Asbury Park S 
Blue Spotted Tail TR 
Blueballs at Christmas T 
Bolt And Run S 
Central Park TR 
Chimney of Doom T 
Granny's Route S 
License to Ill T 
Milksnake T 
Milktoast S 
Moe Pup Sensation S 
Only a Crow S 
Pump Up the Volume S 
Raven S 
Romancing The Snake T 
Romancing the Stone S 
Sky Pilot S 
Snake Skin Slab S 
Terrace, The S 


YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg
Page Views: 2,276
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Jan 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (95)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Bruce on the interesting opening moves.

Note: New route moratorium area. MORE INFO >>>


A fun climb. The bottom half is fairly technical with broad holds which lead up to a small roof. Above the roof there is s striaght up fun crimp fest (.11a) or some friendlier (but not much) holds to the left.


basically up the arete between "5.8 Crack by the road" and Romancing the stone.


6 bolts to lower offs

Photos of Milktoast Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce approaching the roof.
Bruce approaching the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route.
The route.

Comments on Milktoast Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 16, 2008

I used to not like this climb till i found the holds out left after the roof... now its more fun but there are so many better routes at the grade close by i dont tend to choose this one often...

the bottom section ive always thought felt insecure so be careful clipping those bolts lower down...
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 20, 2009

If you missed it on this crags main page, this is a nice photo that shows the line
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Jul 16, 2009

About halfway up, you can find perhaps the best undercling I've ever laid my hands on, and get quite a good rest before attacking the few bouldery moves to conquer the bulge.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Oct 8, 2012

So... I just got the Mountain Project app for my new android phone... turns out I need some practice using it. I got on this thinking it was Asbury Park (5.7). Imagine my surprise halfway up when someone told me it was 5.10d.... anyways, I managed to get up, despite quite a few rests. Good knee bar rest in the middle though.
By S. Neoh
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Not a fave of mine but I do remember working pretty darn hard to get a flash of this route the year it was put up. Sharp and painful climb then. We did not know, to be at grade, one ought to pass the roof on the left. I think I attacked it straight on or even a little to the right of the bolt just above the roof. Never again I told myself after the flash.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Oct 9, 2012

Being tall (~6 feet), I found going straight up over the roof to be doable, as I was just barely tall enough to reach the decent hold while doing the knee bar under the roof.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 19, 2016

Wow, had it really been 7 years since I first climbed this? I enjoyed it today with Natasha. The first couple of bolts were of easy stemming, before a great, chalky foot and some balance gave reach to a left handed sloper turned jug further back. A really high left foot rock over and I found myself catching a no hands rest left of the roof. Placing my draws way out right was a bit of a reach - it's obvious this route was bolted with intentions of going right up the bulge. I continued up the slots out left, up crimps, and eventually a bucket above the 2nd bolt on the bulge face. Big holds led to the new pair of pigtail anchors. Got down before the rain clouds opened up. :)

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About