Milkin' the Chicken
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This climb was rated 5.11a in 1991, but I broke some holds off it in an early ascent as did many others. This has become harder due to those deteriorating holds. I suspect (hope) that the climb has become more stable, however.
Head up a few vertical moves to small holds and pull into a shallow dish. Sling a horn (chicken-head) and head up to the anchors on easier moves.
Take the right-hand fork of the approach trail to encounter this climb on your left as you first reach the cliff base. This is just left of the flat overhanging wall housing a row of more popular sport-climbs such as AWOL and Dragon Slayer.
A few draws and a sling for a chicken-head. There is a runout up top on easier ground to the anchors.
***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.***
This route is privately owned and requires
a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.