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Milkbar T 
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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 5,975
Submitted By: david baker on Feb 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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Milk bar is the perfect finger crack that you will see as you face the rock. The crux comes near the top.You lieback the small roof to pull through crux. Crack takes small cams stem out for good feet. This is a fairly soft 5.9 and a fun classic.


Use small cams (yellow and green aliens work well). Gear anchor in crack at top of climb use medium size cams.

Photos of Milkbar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Milkin' the perfect fingers.
Milkin' the perfect fingers.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim leading the way
Tim leading the way
Rock Climbing Photo: Solid fingers and good friction.
BETA PHOTO: Solid fingers and good friction.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux
Rock Climbing Photo: milkbar through the trees
milkbar through the trees

Comments on Milkbar Add Comment
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By aris garrison
Jan 29, 2007

This is a very good climb. Try climbing it without using the crack.
By snowey
May 8, 2008

Fun climbing that is not entirely trivial. Kind of low angle with good friction. If you are going to lead it, all you need is a couple of yellow TCUs and a couple of blue TCUs to be very well protected.
By G.McCay
From: Galloway, NJ
Mar 21, 2009

Short yet fun 5.8!
By Jonathan Bent
From: San Diego, CA
Aug 21, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The (nicely illustrative) picture is slightly deceptive. I remember being struck by how much shorter/smaller this climb looked in person...
By alleyehave
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 30, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A great climb for its length. But a very soft 5.9...In case it isn't obvious enough, there is a very loose horn at the start that could easily become detached. Fortunately, it's pretty easy to bypass...
By Mackenan Grassi
Jun 13, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I definitely recommend climbing this one both as a layback/finger crack and as a stemmy dihedral. The difficulty doesn't really change either way, it just makes for two fun and very different ways to get to the top.

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